MY FOOT was tapping of its own accord and I couldn't stop checking my mobile phone for the time.

The  train from London was due to leave in ten minutes and the Underground seemed to have come to a halt.

I was in danger of experiencing an urban breakdown. But we arrived at Euston station with seconds to spare and, after pushing through crowds of dawdling commuters and legging it up the escalators, we jumped aboard.

We were on our way to the Lake District, beloved of ramblers and adventurous families everywhere.

The last time I had visited the Lakes was at the age of 15 and my most vivid memories involved being tricked into going on very long walks.

Still, I was looking forward to it.

When we arrived at Oxenholme station the scenery did not disappoint.

Just three hours after leaving the sweaty bustle of the city we were on a platform in the open air, surrounded by some of the most beautiful countryside in the UK - and about to celebrate one of the area's most famous residents on a Beatrix Potter Lakeland break.

Lindeth Howe, with views of Lake Windermere, was actually bought by the children's author as a home for her mum, following the death of her dad.

Now it is a country house hotel.

After dropping off our bags, we walked the ten minutes down the hill to Windermere town where every other shop window has some reference to Miss Potter - now made even more famous by the movie of that title starring Renee Zellweger.

The lake itself, surrounded by rolling hills and mountains, was deep blue in the sunshine. It would be easy to spend hours there, lulled by the serenity of the place.

(Having said that, scientists have been to the area to explore the possibility that the Loch Ness Monster may have a cousin lurking underneath the lake's mirror surface. So it might be best not to linger too long. ) After a walk along the lake's edge we went off in search of refreshment and found a pub called The Hole In't Wall, with a sign boasting that poet William Wordsworth used to sup there.

The place got its name because of a thirsty blacksmith who lived next door. The pub's owners knocked a hole in the wall so they could pass drinks through.

There are some signs of night life other than barn owls and badgers. At dusk, the streets and inns filled quickly. But Windermere is unlikely to become the "new Ibiza", though it can get pretty busy in the peak summer months. Few people go to the Lakes to get bladdered.

The area around the hotel is so generally peaceful that an owl twit-twooing sounded like a foghorn and I swear I heard a ladybird's knee brushing against a blade of grass.

After my best night's sleep in ages and a tasty full English breakfast, we were ready to hit the road.

Our guide for the day was Graham Wilkinson from tour providers Mountain Goat. Graham, who is lucky enough to live in this lush part of the world, promised to show us all the best sights the area has to offer - and he certainly
delivered.

Our first stop was Beatrix Potter's Hilltop Farm, a picture-perfect country cottage where she was inspired to write Peter Rabbit. Even though it was a chilly day, people were queueing up to have their picture taken in the doorway. In the film, nearby Yew Tree Farm was used as her home.

We also had a brief stop at Wray Castle, where Beatrix and her family used to stay during holidays.
It was built in 1840 for one Dr Dawson but, when it was finished, his wife refused to live in it. Hardly surprising. A grey, ugly building created in a revival gothic style, it looks as if it has landed on the green hills by mistake.

After a trip to Kirkstone Pass, the highest road pass in the Lakes, and a stroll near Ullswater, we stopped off in Grasmere for lunch.

Wordsworth used to live in the village and you can see his former homes, Dove Cottage and Rydal Mount.

Grasmere is almost as famous for its melt-in-themouth gingerbread. Even in low season, the queues were snaking out of the door of Sarah Nelson's shop.

In the afternoon, Graham took us to Coniston, where we caught a ferry. The best way to appreciate the beauty and stillness of the Lake District is from the water itself.

Our final stop was Castlerigg Stone Circle, the Lake District's own version of Stonehenge.

Back at the hotel, we were ready for a drink and a slap-up meal. The food at Lindeth Howe is locally sourced, fresh and delicious. I started with a Cumbrian beef fillet dish, followed by tender roast venison and sticky toffee pudding.

The next day, after sleeping off the few vodkas we downed in the hotel bar, we headed back down to Windermere itself for a last gulp of the fresh air.

It could be another few months before we can waddle in the footsteps of Jemima Puddle-Duck again.

FACT BOX

FOR more information or to book a Beatrix Potter Lakeland break, visit www.beatrix-potter-lakeland.com or call 01539 445759.

Virgin Trains operate the main West Coast line services calling at Oxenholme. See www.virgintrains.co.uk

Mountain Goat tours are Lake District Rooms at Lindeth Howe Country House breakfast and VAT. Visit 1539 445759.