DEREK LAMBIE discovers that it's not just its romantic ties which have seen Paris enjoy something of a French renaissance

THE  OLD saying from the movie Casablanca goes: "We'll always have Paris, " and it's true. Overseas travel destinations tend to come and go like seasonal fashions, but the capital of France remains one of the most visited places in the world.

And with the credit crunch putting many off more expensive long-haul destinations, there's no better time to grab a cheap flight and pound the cobbled streets of what many insist is Europe's most beautiful city.

Indeed, despite the global downturn, it's fair to say Paris is enjoying something of a mini-renaissance and, like a long lost cousin, is being embraced once more by British travellers.

I, for one, love Paris. It's not so much that it's a romantic city - of course, it is - but it's the architecture and the scenery, I adore; it's the bottle of fine wine in a cosy restaurant; the aroma of baking baguettes and pancakes wafting through cobbled streets; the chats about the 'Vieille Alliance' with a barman as he pours another cool French beer.

Montmartre epitomises everything that's best about this city, and it's here, rather than the obvious Eiffel Tower, that any visitor should start exploring.

Begin at the Metro station outside the Moulin Rouge, the cabaret club famous for its can-can girls.
There's not an awful lot to see here, but it gives an eye-opening look at the red-light district once frequented by the likes of the Toulouse Lautrec in the 19th century. From here head towards the Sacre Coeur, perched high above the city on Montmartre hill.

On the way you'll pass scenes so stereotypically Parisian you'll imagine you're on a movie set. Be sure to study a map to find the famous cobbled square, La Place du Tertre, where artists paint and time appears to have stood still.

The works for sale are admittedly a bit pricey, but they are original and well worth a look.

Constructed in 1870, and made of limestone that whitens in the rain, the nearby Sacre Coeur is impressive from all angles. Take the twisty steps to the top to see an even better panoramic vista with the Eiffel Tower poking above the rooftops in the distance.

Once back at ground level, as you sit on the steps and contemplate Paris in all its glory, you're certain to hear the strains of the harp, played by the renowned musician Hugo. He sells his CDs for 12 euros and they're well worth it.

Next take the clean and efficient Metro to Ile de la Cité for a look at another architectural masterpiece - Notre Dame. Even if there's not a religious bone in your body it's difficult not to feel profoundly spiritual as you gaze at the ceiling and the three magnificent colour glass windows.

The inside is spectacular and vast - it can hold 6,000 worshippers.

It's captivating on the outside too, as you peer at the Gothic gargoyles perched over the 28 statues representing the monarchs of Judea and Israel above the doors. The detail is amazing, particularly since the cathedral was plundered and partly destroyed during the French Revolution and then almost burned down in 1871 by the Communards.

NOTRE Dame is the very heart of Paris, and indeed France, since it was here in 1768 that geographers decided all distances in the country would be measured from the cathedral.

It was here in 1430 that Henri VI of England was crowned, and in 1804 that Napoleon named himself emperor. Then in 1944 when France was liberated during the Second World War, it was also here that General Charles de Gaulle came first, to pray.

Nearby, a stroll along the Champs Elysées might seem like an appealing, if somewhat, romantic idea. In reality it's akin to walking along Sauchiehall Street at the height of the sales as shoppers and commuters fight for room on pavement space not taken up with tables and chairs belonging to overpriced eateries.
That said, it is still worth plonking yourself down at one of said tables and paying the exuberant prices for a beer and watching the world go past.

From there it's a short walk to the Arc de Triomphe, where you can get a great view from the top.
And for a more modern experience, don't miss out on a trip to Disneyland Paris, where the resort has recently opened its newest attraction, the Hollywood Tower of Terror.

In all honesty, there really is so much to do and see in Paris that a weekend break doesn't do it justice. There's the mysterious catacombs hidden under the ground, the Pompidou Centre or boat trips along the Seine, for starters. Then there's candlelit meals and trying frogs legs or escargots for the first time.
It really is just as well then that there will always be Paris. . .

GETTING THERE:

Air France operates direct flights between Edinburgh and Paris Charles de Gaulle. Return flights are priced about £125 return, including taxes.

For more information visit www.airfrance.co.uk or call 0870 142 4343.

And for more information on Disneyland Resort Paris visit the website at www.disneylandparis.co.uk

LOCATED in the heart of the city, the four-star Hotel Amarante Beau Manoir is ideally placed for a weekend break.

The hotel is a stone's throw from the Place de la Madeleine, a quieter area with a host of bars and restaurants, yet just minutes from the bustling Place de la Concorde. It is also near the famous Parisian gourmet store Fauchon, with its mouth-watering cakes and vast array of champagnes.

After a complete renovation, the hotel is styled to resemble elegant Middle Age Paris, with old tapestries hanging on the walls.

Prices start at £141 per double room per night. For more information visit www.utellboutique.com.