By James Webb

SEE: An  unspoiled beauty. Hartington is a lovely village (church, green, duck pond) in the Dove Valley but can be overwhelmed by visitor numbers in summer. In winter the setting and surroundings are equally beguiling, but empty.

DO: Two things. One, have some cheese. Its famous creamery might have closed but The Hartington Cheese Shop (01298 84935/www.hartingtoncheeseshop.co.uk) still stocks Stilton made from the local recipe and two dozen other cheeses. Then take a walk, perhaps along Beresford Dale to the duo of bracketing crags known as the Celestial Twins; or the two miles to the Norman foundations (all that's left) of Pilsbury Castle. And remember, there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.

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EAT: The Hayloft tearooms (01298 84358/www.hartingtonhayloft.co.uk) has an admirable policy of local sourcing and does excellent teas, coffees, ploughman's lunches, cakes and pies. B&B, too, from £30pp per night.

DRINK: A pint of locally brewed Hartington bitter at the Charles Cotton in the Market Place, with a selection of very decent food if you are hungry. The neighbouring 17th-century coaching inn, the Devonshire Arms, is also worth a visit.

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STAY: Walkers and cyclists should head for Biggin Hall (01298 84451/ www.bigginhall.co.uk) just outside the village. Stay two nights or longer up until April and they will throw in an extralarge breakfast, a packed lunch, mulled wine in the evening and half a carafe of wine with dinner. Dinner, B&B from £77pp per night.

INSIDER'S TIP: With its roaring log fires, beamed ceilings and oak panelling, Hartington Hall must surely be one of the grandest youth hostels in England (01298 84223/ www.yha.org.uk). It dates from 1611, and Bonnie Prince Charlie (allegedly) slept here.

There's a café open daily 11pm-5pm if you want to nose around. From £17.95pp.

Visit Derbyshire: www.visitderbyshire.co.uk