JOHN WILMOTT finds bear cubs, vast gorges and a 2,000-year-old tree on a self-drive tour of the Sierra Nevada mountain range

EVEN  CITY dwellers in cutting-edge California will lay claim to a love of the Great Outdoors and, despite its 36million population, this state has plenty of it. Wilderness covers far more ground than the familiar suburbia depicted in television and cinematic output.
The Sierra Nevada, the mountain range in the east of the state, is California's favourite playground.

Its 400-mile length contains three national parks, the world's biggest trees, America's deepest canyon, its largest alpine lake, 14,000ft peaks, many unique geographical features and incomparably rich wildlife.

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Just as importantly, there are dozens of accommodation options from campsites to rustic lodges and luxury B&Bs. Here's a flavour of the most notable parts of this giant natural theme park.

LAND OF THE GIANTS
From tiny seeds grow mighty trees and they don't come any more mighty than the sequoias at the national park of the same name. They grow only on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada above 6,000ft. Walking in this "Land of the Giants" is both fascinating and unnerving, especially as sequoias often grow very close together, increasing that Lilliputian feeling.

There's plenty lurking in this forest and I spotted several bears in the small meadows and even a mother and cubs by the side of the road. On the park's northern boundary lies Kings Canyon, which is deeper than the Grand Canyon. At almost 8,000ft, the sheer scale is difficult to comprehend.

A drive down into the canyon is a must and reveals some impressive waterfalls and caves.
Don't miss: General Sherman is the world's biggest tree with an incredible 100ft waist. Named after the American Civil War general, Sherman is 277ft high and 2,200 years old and still growing fast.

Stay: Wuksachi Lodge (dialling from UK: 001 559 565 4070/www.visitsequoia.com) offers doubles from £58 per night (two sharing), room only.

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YIELD TO YOSEMITE
Photographers start queueing on Sentinel Bridge several hours before sunset to capture the changing light down the Merced River towards the giant granite face of Half Dome. That iconic monolith forms one "book-end" of the Yosemite valley, the other being the 3,000ft sheer face of El Capitan. Between them, the valley is a place where superlatives pour off the tongue as rapidly as the waterfalls that fume down the sheer walls. Many visitors just see the main valley but a drive up the Tioga Road gives tremendous views across the mountains, icy lakes and alpine meadows.

Don't miss: Vernal Falls, in a side valley behind Half Dome. A stunning but fairly easy hike will get you away from the crowds to this 317ft waterfall.

Stay: White Wolf Lodge (801 559 4884/www.yosemitepark.com) offers canvas tent cabins that sleep up to four from £67 per night.

COLOUR AT MONO
 Lake Tahoe, America's biggest high-altitude lake at more than 22 miles long, is the region's poster boy but if you prefer something a bit more untouched then head to the Eastern Sierra peaks and Mono Lake, an ancient, 45,000-acre body of salt water that forms an oasis on the edge of the high desert. No fish can live here but it attracts millions of such birds as gulls and grebes.

The ranger on duty told me to watch out for ospreys, which nest here but fly into the mountains to find fish.

Don't miss: The "tufas" on the south shore are weird, rock-like pillars up to 30ft high. They are in fact calcified springs, formed when the water level was much higher.

Stay: The Lake View Lodge (800 990 6614/www.lakeviewlodgeyosemite.com) offers wooden cabins that sleep two from £63 per night (two sharing), room only.

MAMMOTH UNDERTAKING
The east side of the Sierra Nevada finishes suddenly, forming a formidable wall against the colourful high desert that stretches away towards Death Valley and Nevada. Tucked up in the hills is Mammoth Lakes, an attractive ski and summer sports mecca.

I walked round the network of pretty lakes, still with banks of snow in early June, and watched anglers trying their luck for trout. Despite the remote location there are plenty of hotels, shops and restaurants for relaxation after a day of horse riding, golf or mountain biking.

Don't miss: Convict Lake may have an ugly name but the three-mile hike around it, hemmed in by jagged peaks, is a beauty.

Stay: Austria Hof Lodge (760 934 2764/www.austriahof.com) offers doubles from £96 per night (two sharing), B&B.

GETTING THERE:

Thomson America & Canada (0871 971 0541/www.thomsonworldwide.co.uk/america) offers a 14-night fly-drive from £579pp (two sharing), including return flights from London into Los Angeles and out of San Francisco with United Airlines and car hire with fully inclusive insurance.

Accommodation at various locations can be arranged on request.