Orlando is vast but follow this guide by JAMES ELLIS and you'll get the best of Florida's Disney delights

AS THE  Florida sun retreats, a middle-aged women hugs herself against the evening chill.

 Behind her is Spaceship Earth, a giant golf-ball shaped structure, the centrepiece of Epcot, one of the four theme parks that make up Orlando's Walt Disney World.

In front of her on a small table lie two folders covered in small, bright shiny things.
Her name is Betsy and she is a full-on addict of the pin trade, one of the more curious aspects of Disney we hear little about in the UK.

Click here now for amazing deals to Florida!

The enamel pins - there are more than 60,000 designs featuring Disney characters and attractions to collect and swap - were brought to the parks 10 years ago when a top Disney executive saw how successful pin trading was at the Olympics. And now Betsy, and thousands like her, just can't get enough. The folders include just the pins she wants to swap. She has thousands more at home. "I've never counted them, " she says. "If I did, I'd know how much I've spent."

In an area twice the size of Manhattan, the Disney fun factory crams in four theme parks (Magic Kingdom, Epcot, Animal Kingdom and Hollywood Studios), two water parks, 24 themed hotels, a Downtown shopping plaza, five golf courses, a couple of lakes, a fire station and even a Disney University which, presumably, gives Mickey Mouse degrees.

Despite what the Magic Kingdom's most famous ride might claim, it's not a Small World and so, to aid your trip, we've broken our guide down into bite-size chunks. Your journey starts here. . .

Park life
MAGIC KINGDOM
This was the first park to be opened here by Disney in 1971.

Magic Kingdom consists of four "lands" around the iconic Cinderella Castle and a huge shopping area called Main Street, USA.

Adventureland, Frontierland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland are packed with rides that are guaranteed to please everyone, from Dumbo and Small World for children, to the Space Mountain and Big Thunder Mountain rollercoasters.

Want incredible deals to Florida? Click here now...

The Pirates Of The Caribbean ride sees an animatronic Johnny Depp popping up on the way, while at the related Pirate League next door, you can get made up by Captain Jack Sparrow's team and earn your sword while learning all kinds of sea-related statistics.

ANIMAL KINGDOM
Just 12 years old, this is the newest park and at 500 acres Disney's biggest one in the world, largely thanks to the space dedicated to Kilimanjaro Safaris which is a full-on safari experience with real animals.

Other highlights are the 4D film It's Tough To Be A Bug, featuring Flik from A Bug's Life and the Expedition Everest rollercoaster that has you suddenly going backwards halfway round.

HOLLYWOOD STUDIOS
The classic Studio Backlot Tour featuring film props is the star attraction but thrill-seekers will be blown away by two of the rides:

Aerosmith's Rock 'n' Roller Coaster slams you from 0-60mph in under three seconds before flinging you around a couple of loops.

Nearby, the Tower of Terror, themed on an old episode of TV's Twilight Zone, has riders gasping for air as they freefall 13 storeys in an elevator car.

EPCOT
This futuristic park was originally conceived as a place for people to live rather than play until Disney decided it didn't want to run its own city.

Soarin' sees riders hoisted into the middle of an IMAX screen to give the illusion of flying.
Mission: SPACE is, however, Disney World's most extreme ride.

Simulating a rocket mission to Mars, you're spun around on a centrifuge that subjects your body to forces reaching 2.5G.

Beyond the parks Theme parks not your thing? You won't be left behind with a host of other activities on offer:

DOWNTOWN DISNEY
This free-entry huge outdoor shopping, dining, and entertainment complex is home to the world's biggest Disney store, World of Disney, a Cirque du Soleil show La Nouba, a Planet Hollywood and the brilliant House of Blues blues bar.

ON THE WATER
On Disney's two man-made lakes, Bay Lake and the Seven Seas Lagoon, you can sedately fish for bass, hire the 52ft Grand 1 yacht for a cruise ($350 per hour) or, best of all, ride Sea Raycers. These mini motor boats reach up to 25mph and crossing someone else's wake gives you a bumpy adrenalin rush to match any ride.

GOOD FOR GOLF
Walt Disney World is home to one nine-hole and four 18-hole courses, three of which are on the PGA tour. If you're less in the swing of things, there are two mini-golf courses.
SPA-TASTIC Walt Disney World's best hotel, the Victorian themed Grand Floridian, has a superlative spa and health club featuring a mile-long jogging trail, tennis courts and sauna and steam rooms.

GET ON YOUR HORSE
Despite the amount of construction in the parks, much of Disney's Florida property is still pristine wilderness. The best way to see it is either by mountain bike or a two-mile horse trail from the Fort Wilderness Resort - a series of log cabins in the forest. Experienced riders may find it just a little sedate but it's ideal for younger children and beginners.

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD
While fast food may rule in the parks, there are some excellent restaurants to try.

Wave at the Contemporary Resort sources local produce for its modern American menu, Citricos at the Grand Floridian has southern European flavours, while American celebrity chef Cat Cora's Kouzzina at the Boardwalk has amazing Mediterranean dishes inspired by her Greek heritage.

Disney tips
Use the free Fastpass system on the parks.

Take a ticket now and return to the front of the queue in an hour's time.

Take the free Disney's Magical Express transfer from the airport to your on-site hotel. Bags are delivered to your room and you can save time by going straight to the parks.

Disney's Ultimate Ticket allows guests to hop between parks and also enjoy visits to the water parks, ESPN Wide World of Sports and Disney Quest. The cost for 14 days is £210 adult; £183 child.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Virgin Holidays (0844 557 3859/www.virginholidays.co.uk) offers seven nights room only at the 5V Disney Resort at Walt Disney World, Florida, from £1,167pp (two sharing). Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Orlando and seven days car hire.
Walt Disney World Resort, Florida: 0870 242 4900/www.disneyworld.co.uk