The City of Light is not just for lovers. LUCY MILLER and her sons discover a playground for all ages

THE  excitement had reached fever pitch by the time my husband Henry and I and our three children arrived at London St Pancras ready to board Eurostar for Paris.

This was the first time we had taken Rocco, our four-year-old son, and Ambrose and Roman, our two-year-old twins, to another country and they were beside themselves.

Rocco had been counting down the days for the past week and finally it was here and happening - he couldn't believe it. We were off to Paris, home to Ratatouille, the rat who loves to cook and the star of their favourite Disney film, and Rocco's other all-time favourite, croissants. We just had no idea how they would react.

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Henry and I needn't have given it a second thought - they all loved every minute of it. Eurostar was a huge success. Rocco hasn't stopped talking about it since and how fast it goes. All three loved going through the Channel Tunnel.

We hadn't realised until we booked that children aged under four travel free on Eurostar, providing they sit on your lap, and the journey time is now so quick they don't have time to tire of it.

Before Rocco and the twins knew it, we were pulling into the Paris Gare du Nord station. There were shouts of delight in the taxi as we circled the Arc de Triomphe.

It was even better when we realised that our hotel, the InterContinental Paris Avenue Marceau, was so central that we were just a two-minute walk from it. It was incredibly comfortable and luxurious and, most importantly, very happy to welcome children. We had two interconnecting rooms - with two travel cots and a single bed set up for the children in one room, just as we'd asked.

Our trip was a real lesson in how three children's delight can give you a refreshing new perspective on a city. Some things we knew they'd adore, others they surprised us with.
We knew they would love going up the Eiffel Tower. If Rocco had had his way he would have gone right to the very top with Henry every day we were there.

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More surprisingly, they loved seeing the sculptures at the Musée d'Orsay and, particularly, the model of the city set out under a section of glass floor. American tourists were laughing away as Rocco, Ambrose and Roman dragged themselves across the floor getting dirtier and dirtier as they stared at it, their faces pressed to the glass.

They also loved the Metro, running around the huge glass pyramid and fountains outside the Louvre, and visiting Notre Dame.

Rocco was particularly taken by the sculpture of one poor saint who was carrying his head after being beheaded. All three were transfixed by the scale of the enormous stained-glass windows.

The other huge success was visiting the Jardin des Tuileries.
 
We'd had no idea that one of Paris children's favourite pastimes is pushing little wooden sail boats across the ornamental ponds with long wooden sticks. Our three lapped it up. They ran around following their boats, losing track of which one was theirs and getting soaked by the fountains.

And to top it all there was also a carousel, which they'd never seen, let alone been on. Rocco and the twins couldn't believe their luck.

The owner, seeing how delighted our children were, even let them have a second turn for free.

If the sign of a successful holiday is that you don't want to leave, that was certainly true for the five of us. Paris now holds some very special memories - we will certainly go back.
In London, having piled into a taxi on our way home, Henry asked: "Who loved Paris?" Three very tired, very happy boys cried out: "Me. . . eee, " as loudly as they could. When Henry asked Rocco which bit of the trip he had liked best he very quickly said: "All of it, " and he meant it.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
The InterContinental Paris Avenue Marceau (0871 423 4876/www.intercontinental.com) offers doubles from £243 per night (two sharing), room only.

Cots available upon request.

Eurostar (0870 518 6186/www.eurostar.com) offers return fares from London St Pancras to Paris from £59 per adult and £49 per child (under 12) .

French Government Tourist office:
0906 824 4123/www.franceguide.com