Every 10 years for four centuries, the people of the Bavarian village of Oberammergau have put on a medieval Passion Play that has entranced the world. KATHY ARNOLD goes behind the scenes

THE ROOM  is small. A long white robe hangs from a hook. On the table is a crown of thorns; real, sharp, finger-pricking thorns. This is the dressing room for "Jesus"; next door are rows of Roman soldiers' tunics, while the long wooden table in the hall is used for the Last Supper. I am on a backstage tour of the Passion Play Theatre in Oberammergau, southern Germany.

Halfway between Munich and Innsbruck, this village is typically Bavarian: red geraniums brighten balconies, an onion-shaped dome tops the church. Houses are painted with elaborate frescoes, from fairytales to such biblical scenes as the portrait of Pontius Pilate on the Pilatus House.

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This 200-year-old building is now a crafts centre where my husband Paul and I watch potters, artists painting glass and wood carvers at work. "The village has been famous for its wood carving for 900 years, " we are told.

No wonder shop windows are filled with Christmas crib figurines.

There is wood everywhere.

Just as we love an ancient pub, with low beams and horse brasses, Bavarians love a cosy Stube, with wood-panelled walls, cheery tablecloths and deer antlers. They also demand hearty portions. At the 500-yearold Hotel Alte Post, Paul tucks into a Bauernomelette, a farmer's omelette stuffed with potatoes, onions and ham. I go for a delicious venison stew, with cranberries and red cabbage.

Tradition is everything but even though this is the oldest hotel in town, the upstairs bedrooms are bright and modern.

Surrounded by mountains and meadows, Oberammergau is a popular base for walking holidays.

We take the cable car up the 5,500ft Laber Mountain for the views and for goulash soup and freshly made rhubarb and strawberry cake in the café.

On the panoramic terrace, hikers stretch out on sun loungers and sip beer. The clean mountain air is intoxicating.

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Offering a real kick are the monks at Ettal Monastery, where the Benedictines have been brewing and distilling for more than 400 years. On a warm day their beer is refreshing, on a cold day their herb liqueur warms the toes.

The biggest draw, however, is the 19th-century Schloss Linderhof, a Disney-like mini-palace built by "Mad" King Ludwig II.

"Flashy or what?" my husband whispers as we stand in the glittering Spiegelsaal, a room covered from floor to ceiling in mirrors and gold leaf.

Every 10 years all of these attractions are put in the shade by Oberammergau's medieval Passion Play. Portraying the last days of Jesus, it dates from 1634 when plague had devastated the region. Praying for deliverance, the villagers pledged to act out the Passion of Christ every 10 years, for ever more.

They survived and their descendants have kept that promise ever since. This year, the Passion Play is staged for the 41st time with a total of 102 performances. These are split between afternoons and evening, with no performances on Monday or Wednesday.

With only 10 weeks to go until opening night on May 15, half the 5,000-strong population is involved, whether acting or singing, painting scenery or sewing costumes.

Everything is made in Oberammergau, even the iron helmets and shields are hammered out by the village blacksmith.

Walking through the cobbled streets, I see that long hair is de rigueur, and not just for women. From bank clerks to police officers, men get special dispensation to sport long tresses and even longer beards.

Tony Preisinger, owner of the Hotel Alte Post, has impressive whiskers: "We started growing them as soon as the parts were announced a year ago."

IO BE part of the play, you have to have been born in Oberammergau or have lived there for at least 20 years.

"This is my third Passion Play, " Eva-Maria Reiser tells me.

"In 1990, when I was five years old, I was in the crowd scene.

In 2000, I played the violin in the orchestra. This year, I am Mary Magdalene."

Now 25, the Lufthansa flight attendant has given up work for eight months to carry on a family involvement that began with her great-great-grandfather.

The production is highly professional, thanks to Oberammergau-born Christian Stückl, one of Germany's top theatre directors. The 60-strong choir and 55-piece orchestra are equally impressive. The uplifting score binds together the familiar story, acted out over five hours with a three hour break for dinner.

So, is it a piece of medieval theatre, a pageant with music or a religious experience?

Does it matter? After all, non-believers are touched by Handel's Messiah and Verdi's Requiem. In any case, as Eva explains: "Everyone is welcome.

The Passion Play is organised by the village, not the church.

It brings us all together, men and women, across religions, professions and generations."
On opening night, the promise made in this village all those centuries ago will once again be kept.

GETTING THERE:

The Classic Traveller (0800 988 5843/www.theclassictraveller.co.uk) offers a two-night stay in Oberammergau from £499pp (two sharing), full board, including return flights from Gatwick to Munich and play tickets. Departs July 31 and August 14.

The Passion Play 2010 (www.oberammergaupassion.com) runs from May 15 to October 3.

German National Tourist Office: 0207 317 0908/www.germany-tourism.co.uk