AS St Patrick's Day approaches next week, ROB GREENER takes a trip to the awesome Emerald Isle

TRUE HAVEN OF HIDDEN PLEASURE
"COME  and experience a true Irish welcome, " the guide book said and within hours of landing on the Emerald Isle I was doing just that.

As I downed Guinness, tucked into seaweed and discussed the finer rules of Gaelic football, it wasn't long before I'd found a new bunch of friends who were happy to see in the wee small hours with me.

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I'd travelled from Holyhead to Dublin aboard Stena Line's Adventura car ferry which takes you up the River Liffey to Dublin's city centre port.

On arriving in Dublin I resisted the obvious draw to head south to Cork or west to Galway and went into Northern Ireland to the pretty village of Strangford.

Nestled on the shores of the beautiful Strangford Lough was where I found myself sampling a pint with the locals.

Right in the heart of St Patrick's country and the nearby Mourne Mountains, this secret holiday haven is known to few.

After waking with a sore head the next day, I jumped on the ferry across the lough (or lake) to the village of Portaferry where the hit TV series The Invisibles was filmed.

Portaferry is also home to Exploris, Northern Ireland's only aquarium, with its own seal sanctuary. But if it's seals you're after, make sure you visit during the two pupping seasons.
Common seals are born in June and July and grey seals between September and December.
There are plenty of other things to see and do at Exploris such as the Open Sea Tank with its local marine life, including rays and sharks.

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Children can hold starfish, sea anenomes, scallops and sharks' eggs.

Even with its stunning scenery, famous cuisine and drinking, a great history and a warm welcome, no trip to Northern Ireland would be complete without a visit to the incredible Giant's Causeway.

Legend has it that the giant Finn MacCool built the causeway as stepping stones to Scotland so his great rival, the Scottish giant Benandonner, could travel across to Ireland for a decisive battle between the two.

Unfortunately for Finn, as his rival approached, he realised the Scottish giant was far bigger and more fearsome than him, so he fled home where his wife disguised him as a baby.
 
When the Scot saw the massive baby he retreated, saying if this was the baby, he had no wish to meet the father, and fled back to Scotland, tearing up the Causeway behind him.

Legend or not, the Causeway takes your breath away and I had a great time climbing and jumping all over the rock formation.

My next stop was back into the Republic and the county of Donegal.

Some of my happiest childhood holidays were spent on a working farm so I booked in for bed and breakfast at the picturesque Ashdale Farmhouse, just outside the small town of Carndonagh.

After a quick tour around the farm to meet the cows, calves, sheep, chickens and baby donkey, I set off exploring.

Carndonagh is on County Donegal's Inishowen peninsula and is surrounded on three sides by the sea and beaches.

There seems to be another one around every corner, all with long, deserted stretches of clean golden sand, vivid blue sea and dramatic coastline.

I then headed for Culdaff Beach, a renowned Blue Flag beach on a magnificent Atlantic bay.

At the top of the Inishowen peninsula is Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point. From the top of the cliffs you look down onto rugged rocks and a pounding sea, where it has become traditional to arrange white rocks to spell out your name.

On the way back from Malin Head I stopped at the Doagh Famine village. It's a strange thing to turn into a tourist attraction but well worth a visit to see how the Irish used to live not so very long ago.

The %7 (£6.70) admission fee even includes a cup of tea - very Father Ted.

No trip to the Emerald Isle would be complete without visiting Dublin to sample the world-famous "craic", eating, drinking, live music and laughing in one of the city's 1,000 or so pubs and bars.

Enjoy fabulous seafood or a steak while listening to impromptu performances by local musicians and just soak up the buzz. In Dublin we stayed in the recently refurbished Trinity Capital Hotel, just a stone's throw from the bars and restaurants in the trendy Temple Bar area of the city and a short stroll from the River Liffey. Handy for walking off the effects of the night before.

The best way to see the city is on the hop-on hop off Dublin bus city tour.

This circular tour gives you all-day, unlimited travel between Dublin's main tourist attractions, often with the driver's hilarious version of history thrown in for free.

Meanwhile, the Guinness Storehouse, home to the black stuff since 1759, is Ireland's top visitor attraction. As you work your way up the massive seven storey building, modelled into the shape of a pint of Guinness, you learn about each stage of the process that goes into brewing your pint.

If you are lucky, you might be chosen to press the button to start the next batch of 100,000 pints.

Finally, at the top of the brewery you reach the Gravity Bar where you get to enjoy the best pint of Guinness in the world while taking in the breathtaking 360-degree views across the city.

There really is no place like Ireland. People go there from all over the world to enjoy its lifestyle and customs, yet we can be there in a few hours, or even quicker if you take the fast ferry.

So if you are thinking of staying closer to home this year, pay our neighbours across the Irish Sea a visit.

I guarantee a very warm welcome.

FACT FILE

GETTING THERE:
Stena Line Ferries routes are Holyhead to Dublin Port/Dun Laoghaire.
Four return superferry crossings daily between Holyhead and Dublin Port and one daily fastcraft return crossing between Holyhead and Dun Laoghaire.

Prices start from £119 per car, one way, plus driver, for superferry and £139 for fastcraft.
Fare for an extra adult is £20, single, while an extra child is £10, single.
To book call 08705 70 70 70 or click on stenaline.co.uk.

WHERE TO STAY:
Ashdale Farmhouse, Carndonagh, Co Donegal, from £32 per person, per night, or £89 for three nights.

See ashdalehouse.net.

The Trinity Capital Hotel, Dublin, see trinitycapital-hotel.com.

ATTRACTIONS:
The Guinness Storehouse, Dublin, costs £12 for adults, £4.50 for children.

Exploris Aquarium, Portaferry, Co Down, cost £7 for adults and £4.50 for children.
Dublin Bus Tours, £14 for adults, £5.60 for children.