ELLA BUCHAN makes like a Roman and relaxes in the hot waters at Britain's only natural thermal spa, Bath

AS  the sun set over the gothic spires of Bath Abbey, I bobbed about in the rooftop pool and
watched the mist swirling on the surface.

The weather hardly matters when you’re enveloped in the mild waters of Britain’s only natural thermal spa – except when you climb out into the chilly air.

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But even on a cool, spring evening this is the best introduction you could have to the city of Bath.

These waters, which come from hot springs, are the lifeblood pumping through the city’s historic veins, so it seems strange that there was a period of 28 years during which there was no place to enjoy them.

Novelty
Until the Thermae Bath Spa – a big glass cube – opened in 2006, this natural resource remained untapped.

But now residents and visitors can once again do as the Romans did and luxuriate in the warm, mineral-rich waters.

At £22 for two hours, it is pricey – but worth it just for the sheer novelty of bathing al fresco in Blighty without catching hypothermia.

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Suffiiently relaxed after trying out the steam rooms and the indoor Minerva Baths, I headed back to my  apartment on St James’ Parade – a grand Georgian terrace with very modern  spaces behind its façade. For the freedom to come and go and lie in for as long as you please, a serviced apartment can be bliss.

One big bonus is being able to cook for yourself and
 consume supermarket booze, saving you pounds.

If you fancy a meal out, a cheap and cockle-warming option is  Sally Lunn’s – home of the Sally Lunn bun, which tastes a bit like brioche.

Most of the main meals are served on half a bun with beautifully- cooked lamb, beef or pork, gravy and veg for under a tenner.

Nothing fancy but that – and the elbow-to-elbow dining room – adds to its charm.

All the city’s main attractions are a gladiator sandal’s throw from the apartments. One of the most fascinating places to visit is, again, all about water – the Roman Baths.

After a dip in the modern-day spa, looking around this ancient building gives you a sense of the historical importance of the  waters.

After touring the maze of interlinking plunge pools and communal bath houses, the end point is the magnifi cent Great Bath. Lounging against a pillar, it’s only the lack of togas and the fact you can’t actually go into the water that spoil the sense of being in Ancient Rome.

On the way out, be sure to taste a small glass of the magic waters in the Pump Room. It isn’t exactly pleasant but in these days of “superfood” madness, you might just be tempted to drink it any- way.

Another cultural treasure Bath has taken to its hearts is Jane Austen. There is a Jane Austen centre and souvenir shops selling “I Heart Mr Darcy” shopping bags.

Every autumn people of all ages and from all around the world gather in their Darcy/Lizzy
 finery and parade delicately around the city, from the Roman Baths to Queen Square. Even the dogs are liveried in fine waistcoats and neck scarves. It is a lovely sight, especially around the Royal Crescent, which reeks of Georgian finery and decadence and overlooks the Royal Victoria Park.

But it is a little strange – all this fuss for a woman who did not particularly like the city. In fact, following her visits she couldn’t wait to return to the countryside. But then Bath, a UNESCO world heritage site, seems to collect little pieces of history and claims to fame.

In the centre is the crest of Queen Victoria – who refused ever to return to the city because, as a child, a local journalist insulted her dress.

There is also a towering monument to her outside Royal Victoria Park. This is a city that likes to show off. It has several crescents, most of which are literally all for show – top architects over-saw the curving, grand fronts and then left builders to cobble the backs  together.

You can see evidence of this from the water, on a boat tour along the River Avon.

Turrets
Try Bath City Boat Trips for  fascinating nuggets of  information and the chance to feed the swans.

From the river you can see Bath Spa Station, designed by Brunel with a castle-like façade.

And in the hills surrounding the city is the Sham Castle. All turrets and towers, from the front it looks like the real thing – but really it is just a wall.

The river tour ended with a view of the Pulteney Bridge, one of the most photographed bridges in the country.

It is also one of very few in the world to be lined with shops on both sides. As the boat pulled away, splashes of cool river water hit our faces –  reminding us, once again, why Bath is so special.

FACT FILE:

■PRICES for a standard studio apartment at the SACO serviced  apartments in St James’ Parade start at £61 per night. Call 01225 486 540 or see sacoapartments.co.uk.
■First Great Western runs trains from London Paddington to Bath Spa Station, from around £50 return.
■ A two-hour spa session at Thermae Bath Spa, Bath Street, costs from £22. See thermaebathspa.com or call 0844 888 0844.
■ Sally Lunn’s, North Parade Passage. See sallylunns.co.uk or call 01225 461 634.