You don't need to stay in a luxury hotel to enjoy Kerala, India's fantastic hospitality, as LAURA CLOUT and her mother discover

MY MOTHER  Jennifer had barely been anywhere more exotic than the Costa del Sol, let alone ventured to India, but to see her straddling an elephant's back, being thoroughly drenched with water from its trunk and laughing her head off, you'd think she was a seasoned traveller.

It seems that Kerala, the south-western state flanked by the Arabian Sea, has a way of doing that to you.
The sprawling backwaters, lush vegetation and endless beaches populated by gentle Malayali people slowly seep into your soul until you are meandering between rickshaws and cows like a local, dozing through the 5am call to prayer and relishing curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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Mum and I found that "homestays" - largely run by well-off families with rooms to spare and a love of visitors - were the perfect way to sample Kerala's many flavours. Some have purpose-built accommodation for guests but typically visitors will stay at the heart of the family home. Keralites make fabulous hosts, offering travel advice, cooking lessons and booking trips, without being the least bit over-bearing.

Diana and Jerry Kocherry travelled the high seas before opening their homestay, Noah's Ark, in the genteel port of Fort Kochi. Their modern, multi-storey house is bright and airy thanks to a huge skylight in the centre and is adorned with stunning religious tapestries. After a night in one of their six air-conditioned rooms, visitors typically descend the spiral staircase to a breakfast table groaning with food.

Diana is a magician in the kitchen, conjuring regular feasts such as meen pollichathu (fish roasted in banana leaf) and payasam (a milky dessert flavoured with cardamom, almonds and saffron).

It was Jerry and Diana's advice that led me and mum, tired and stiff after a long flight, to the ayurvedic massage centre a short stroll away. The technique uses essential oils to complement your "dosha", or internal constitution, and soothe away all those aches and pains.

The modest St Francis Church, where Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama was originally buried, is one of the many historical sights within a slow amble of Fort Kochi's faded but peaceful centre.

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Our next stop was the hill station of Thekkady. The spotless and modern Chitrashala homestay in nearby Kumily was designed by its owner, former architect Mr Shaji and his wife Bindu.

Guests have the run of the first floor, with en-suite bathrooms and a shared breezy balcony, while the Shajis live downstairs with their smiling teenage children.

As dusk fell we were introduced to Madu, a 26-year-old resident of Elephant Junction, a must-see attraction for families. At this forest base, interaction between humans and this most graceful of pachyderms is encouraged and mum and I got closer than we'd ever imagined.

I had a Mowgli moment, climbing barefoot on to Madu to ride bareback behind her huge flapping ears. And after being sprayed full force with water from the elephant's trunk, we agreed it was our most exhilarating shower ever.

Leaving the cool of the hills we headed to Alleppey, three hours away in the coastal lowlands, where picturesque canals, backwaters and lagoons have won it the title Venice of the East. We were warmly greeted by Mr Zacharia, his wife Maria and their dozing puppy at their sprawling home Tharavadu. Decked out with dark wood furniture and cool white tiles, the house is grand and traditional.

We avoided the most famous way of seeing the waterways, motor-powered luxurious houseboats, for a peaceful ride in a narrowboat rowed by Mr Prasenan and his magnificent moustache.

We entered the narrowest waterways to glimpse a patchwork of daily lives:
young boys fished and swam and mothers bathed their babies, all in the shimmering, green-brown water that is the lifeblood of the area.

In the evening Alleppey Beach is the place to go to drink sweet coconut milk straight from the seed and for flying kites.

Homestays may not offer the unbridled luxury and diverse facilities of a top hotel but for anyone wishing to get to know the people in this peaceful and beautiful state there is no better place to stay.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Mahindra Homestays (0203 140 8422/ www.mahindrahomestays.com) offers double or twin rooms at more than 250 properties across India from £47 per night (two sharing), full board.
Hosts can arrange all excursions.
Emirates (0844 800 2777/www.emirates.com/uk offers return flights from Gatwick to Kochi from £450. India Tourism: 0207 437 3677/www.incredibleindia.org