Cruising around the stunning coastline and through the inland waterways in Scotland has many rewards, as KATE BOHDANOWICZ finds out

I AM  standing at the bottom of a steep staircase. It will take the best part of two hours to ascend the eight steps but then, I do have a glass of wine in my hand and I am being distracted by thoughts of lunch. The aroma of minted lamb is wafting past my nose.

I am at Neptune's Staircase, eight interconnecting locks at the entrance of the Caledonian Canal in the shadow of Ben Nevis in Scotland.

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Fortunately the steep incline is not being tackled by me but by the Lord of the Glens, the elegant teak-clad vessel on which myself, my mother Pauline and around 50 others are cruising.

We began our trip in Oban heading straight to the island of Mull to beat the inclement weather forecast for the following day. The surroundings of my temporary floating home were sumptuous.

The rich mahogany interior of the Sir Walter Scott bar was furnished with framed pictures and mirrors, leather sofas and stained glass.

Our state cabin with its picture window, panelled walls and large writing table was reminiscent of a former era when ship and train travel were the ultimate in luxury.

We left the port of Tobermory with its multi-coloured houses by coach the next day to visit Duart and Torosay Castles. Our trip was made all the more interesting by driver Steve, whose gentle Scots lilt introduced us to the charm of island life where stags outnumber people and the social life is "good, sometimes too good".

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At windy Duart we were met by Lord Lachlan Maclean, its current inhabitant. Strings are pulled when you travel on the Lord of the Glens.

I was tucking into my melt-in-the-mouth Loch Fyne kippers, an optional extra of the buffet breakfast, when we set sail the following morning for Corpach Sea Lock at the entrance to the Caledonian Canal.

At Glenfinnan we disembarked to visit the monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie. Some of us climbed to a viewing point where we waited, cameras in hand for the (delayed) 3.05pm steam train to chuff its way across the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. Heading back to the boat we were met with a glass of mulled wine. This was just one of many lovely touches, from the soft white robes placed in our cabins to the willingness of the staff to accommodate any whim and fancy.

With only 11 crew we saw the same friendly faces, while the walks are needed to compensate for the wonderful food. "It looks so beautiful it seems a shame to eat it, " said my mum staring at her chicken wrapped in Parma ham with parsnip crisps. Yet every four-course dinner we polished off.

Our next stop was Loch Ness.

Maybe its most famous inhabitant would be willing to show her face?

"Is it? Could it be?" we asked each other, before chiding barman Jackson for his generous glasses.

We passed Urquhart Castle before mooring on its banks. That night the captain's farewell reception preceded a jovial affair with Scotch broth and haggis, neeps and tatties. A kilted Brian - the ship's man Friday and master of ceremonies - treated us to some Robert Burns as he welcomed the haggis. It sounds corny but like everything else on board the Lord of the Glens it was marvellous.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Archers Direct (0871 423 8638/ www.archersdirect.co.uk) offers a four-night Autumn In The Highlands cruise from Oban to Fort Augustus on board MV Lord of the Glens from £599pp (two sharing), full board.

Price includes transfers from Inverness to Oban and excursions. Departs October 21, 2010.

Visit Scotland: 0845 602 3779/www.visitscotland.com