Prague, Czech Republic may be an old lady - but she's full of life says DAVE BERRY

I'VE fallen in love. OK, she's no spring chicken and has been badly treated over the years.

But be warned - Prague in the Czech Republic will draw you under her spell too.

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This proud, Czech lady has held on to her treasures despite Nazi vasion, bombing raids and communist repression.
In the Old Town Square, crowds gather on the hour to hear the chimes of the Astronomic Clock as its doors slide open to reveal moving figures of the Apostles.

Kings Charles and Wenceslas dominate the city. The 14th Century Charles Bridge across the Vltava was named after its creator, Charles IV.

And Good King Wenceslas now surveys his people on horseback at one end of the square given his name.

The old king has witnessed many dramatic events from here - Nazi invaders marching through in 1939, Russian tanks squashing the democratic dream of the Prague Spring in 1968 and then the Velvet Revolution of 1989 after the Berlin Wall came down.

These days Wenceslas Square is ruled by hotels, offices, apartments and shops, many with familiar names, such as Marks & Spencer.

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But for extra special clothes or jewellery, go down Parizska - or Paris Street - which has all the designer shops of your dreams.

Food and drink here is generally less expensive than in other European cities such as Paris and Rome.
 
Best value are local wines and peciality dishes such as halfduck with dumplings and pickled cabbage.

For a real treat, dine at the rooftop Zlata Praha restaurant in the InterContinental hotel. The view is spectacular and the food matches it.

Music is an important part of life in Prague.

I was lucky enough to get a ticket for a concert by the city's philharmonic orchestra in the ornate Rudolfinum - but there are all sorts of events going on every day across the city.

You won't walk far without having a flyer thrust towards you - and a good way to find out what's happening is to pick up a copy of the English Prague Post.

If you're looking for a buzzing nightlife there are many rock, blues or jazz clubs to try.

It's easy to see why Prague has also become a favourite venue for stag weekends - she's great for a last fling.

I stayed at the brand-new Jurys Inn hotel, across the road from Florenc metro station and five minutes walk to the Old Town. It's comfortable, efficiently run, with a friendly atmosphere and helpful staff.

It's easy to get around the city.

Metro trains, trams and buses are plentiful. But taxis can be expensive, so establish the price with your driver before you set off. To see many of the city's treasures just stroll through the Old Town, across the 14th Century Charles Bridge over the river Vltava and up to Prague Castle.

The buildings are of all ages and styles and remember to look up at the angels, statues and figurines carved into the walls and roofs.

Allow several hours to explore the castle, once the home of kings, now the President's base amid a collection of churches, palaces and tasteful shops.

St Vitus Cathedral, started in the 14th Century, was only completed in the 20th. It is the largest church in the country and is full of history.

That, along with the Lobkowicz Museum in the castle grounds, really stood out for me.

There I discovered the Lobkowicz family's extraordinary story.

They once owned more castles than we could dream of - then lost and regained everything twice, first to the Nazis then to the Communists.

The family fled to America but returned in 1991 to recover their rightful treasures which they are still putting back in place.

There are many priceless items in the museum, including two Canaletto paintings and original scores by Beethoven, who dedicated several works to the family, his patrons.

William Lobkowicz, 49, is now in charge of the family fortune and I met him and his wife when he called in the museum shop.

The audio guide he composed for the tour, detailing his family's colourful history, could be a fairytale if it wasn't all true.

I barely skimmed the surface of Prague and could have easily spent a week exploring her hidden depths.

Perhaps now you can understand how I fell for her charms. I always was a sucker for the older woman.

EASYJET flies from Gatwick to Prague with return fares from £49.98 and from Stansted from £46.98.

See easyJet.com or call 0905 821 0905.

Rooms at the Jurys Inn Prague start from around £60. See jurysinns.com

To book events at the Rudolfinum, see ceskafilharmonie.cz

For information on the Zlata Praha restaurant in the InterContinental hotel, see intercontinental.com

Check out pragueexperience.com for a selection of clubs.

For all information on Prague, see czechtourism.co.uk