DANA GLOGER heads for the wilds of Wales and is won over by its natural beauty

AS A city girl born and bred, I've always had a slight unease about the countryside.

I like having everything I need at the end of the road and being able to jump on the Tube at any time. However I surprised myself on arriving at Laswern Fawr, a beautiful self-catering cottage in the Brecon Beacons National Park, Wales.

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The 16th-century property is nothing if not remote, high in the mountains, two miles from the nearest town and accessed only by narrow winding tracks and an old tram road.

It is so cosy and full of charm that even I began to look forward to spending a weekend here.

Laswern Fawr has five bedrooms, with space to sleep eight, and underfloor heating beneath the slate tiles.

The cottage's walls are lined with hundreds of books and it also boasts a large selection of DVDs, CDs and even audio books, so there's no danger of getting bored even if the weather is miserable.

I was joined for my stay by my parents and sister Paula. After divvying up the rooms (mine had huge windows overlooking Sugar Loaf mountain, while Paula settled in the former hayloft under the eaves), we raided the welcome pack, which was filled with local produce such as sausages, bacon, tea and jam.

We were lucky to have glorious weather, which meant no excuse not to spend our time exploring the beautiful surroundings.

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Our first stop was the Georgian town of Crickhowell, whose quaint, narrow streets and independent shops are well worth a wander. We headed on to the sailing and boating haven of Llangorse Lake, the largest natural lake in south Wales, and Blaen-Y-Glyn waterfalls, accessed via a steep uphill walk but worth the effort.

Other excursions included the charming town of Hay-on-Wye, famed for its secondhand bookshops and the annual Hay Festival of Literature and Arts, which begins on May 27.

After wandering around the shops, we decided it was time to up the ante and go for a proper hike. Hay Bluff, a peak on the ridge of the Black Mountains, was our chosen spot.

The older generation showed up the youngsters with my parents racing to the 2,220ft peak while we struggled in their wake. From the summit, we took in spectacular views of the Wye Valley with its patchwork of fields and farms.
It was always nice to get back to our temporary base and to relax in the sitting room with its rustic oak beams and stone fireplace, complete with stove and original bread oven.

Aside from its natural beauty, the Brecon Beacons is a haven for foodies.

Don't miss The Bear, an old coaching inn in Crickhowell that dates back to the 15th century. Its low-beamed bar is filled with antiques, including a coach timetable from the 19th century, a nod to the inn's former life.

Sitting by the log fire I devoured cauliflower cakes followed by a fantastic sticky toffee pudding.

The Llanwenarth Hotel & Riverside Restaurant, on the banks of the River Usk, also proved a favourite.
With floor-to-ceiling views over the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, the setting is as stunning as the food, which included Welsh lamb rump with a side dish of garlic prawns.

So my trepidation over a weekend in the Welsh countryside proved ill-founded.

While I won't be trading my city flat for a country retreat just yet, I'll certainly be going back.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Brecon Beacons Holiday Cottages (01874 676446/www.breconcottages.com) offers three nights at Laswern Fawr from £605 (sleeps eight), self-catering.

Brecon Beacons National Park: 01874 622485/ www.visitbreconbeacons.com