In the second of our six-part series on popular ferry routes, NORMAN MILLER checks out the twin charms of Plymouth and the charming Breton port of Roscoff

PLYMOUTH  
Sir Francis Drake famously made time to finish his game of bowls on Plymouth Hoe before sailing to defeat the Spanish Armada.

Perched between the waters of Plymouth Sound and the dramatic landscape of Dartmoor, the city has an enviable location that you can take in from the vast green expanse of the Hoe, which is also home to the art deco Tinside lido and the iconic18th-century Smeaton’s lighthouse.

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Head to the Barbican to explore cobbled streets dating back to the time of Drake and get an insight into the town’s rich history at the City Museum and the 16th-century Merchant’s House. If that leaves you in need of a stiff drink, try the legendary Plymouth Gin at the 18th-century Black Friars Distillery.

Two local National Trust beauties are Saltram House in neighbouring Plympton and Cotehele House, a Tudor gem along the River Tamar, a lovely boat trip if you don’t fancy the drive.   

STAY: The Imperial (01752 227 311/www.imperialplymouth.co.uk) offers doubles from £72.50 (two sharing), B&B.

INFO: Visit Plymouth: 01752 306 330/ www.visitplymouth.co.uk

THE FERRY
Operated by Brittany Ferries (0871 244 0744/ www.brittanyferries.com), the MV Armorique combines modern technology with old-fashioned comfort. Daytime crossings take six hours (eight hours overnight) and there are 336 reclining seats and 247 cabins plus bar, café and self-service restaurant, two cinemas and a games area. Returns from £174 for car plus two passengers on stays of up to five days.

ROSCOFF
Ancient granite houses hug the atmospheric little harbour of this charming Breton port, whose compactness conceals a few surprises.

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The area is home to some fine tropical gardens (www.jardinexotiqueroscoff.com) with palm-framed views along the Breton coast. There’s another green oasis, the Jardin Delaselle, on the Ile de Batz, just 20 minutes’ ferry ride from Roscoff. Here you’ll also find little sandy beaches and the 11th-century ruins of the Sainte-Anne chapel, which complements Roscoff’s 16th-century Gothic masterpiece Notre Dame de Croas Batz. 

Roscoff is one of France’s oldest thalassotherapy centres and a visit to the 19th-century spa (www.thalasso-line.com) remains an invigorating treat.

Pamper your taste buds, meanwhile, at restaurants such as Surcouf on Rue Amiral Réveillère or the Michelin-starred Le Temps de Vivre (www.letempsdevivre.net) at the swish hotel of the same name.

Still on a foodie theme, the museum, La Maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff, on rue Brizeux provides a charming insight into the famous stripy-shirted bicycle-pedalling “Onion Johnnies” who began travelling from Roscoff to England in the 1820s, bringing us not only the area’s most famous crop but also perhaps our most cherished French stereotype. 

The beautiful river port of Morlaix is 12 miles from Roscoff (there’s a train link, too) and offers two excellent museums (Musée des Jacobins and the 16th-century Maison de la Reine Anne), more botanic gardens plus France’s tallest lighthouse.

The 6,500-year-old Cairn de Barnenez in nearby Plouezoc’h is thought to be Europe’s oldest building, dubbed the
“Prehistoric Parthenon”.
 
STAY: Hôtel Aux Tamaris (dialling from the UK: 0033 2 9861 2299/www.hotel-aux-tamaris.com) offers doubles from £66 per night (two sharing), room only.

INFO: Roscoff Tourism: 9861 1213/ www.roscoff-tourisme.com