Circle the coastal path or kayak along the shoreline to really appreciate Guernsey's dramatic scenery, says NICK BOULOS

THE winding gravel path was lined with delicate bluebells and buttercups. Hundreds of feet below the rugged cliffs were battered by the slate-grey sea, shooting spray skyward. There wasn't a soul to be seen. Such seclusion and epic scenery isn't out of the ordinary on Guernsey.

As I made my way along Le Gouffre, the 42-mile coastal path circling the island, both were in abundance.

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The islands of Sark and Herm shimmered in the distance and Jersey, 27 miles away, made a fleeting appearance on the hazy horizon. Elm and willow trees swayed in the breeze and the thick blackthorn bushes rustled wildly. Come September islanders will flock here to pick berries to make sloe gin.

After my early morning jaunt I stopped for a slice of gauche (fruit bread) at Sausmarez Manor in St Martin before browsing its farmers market, held every Saturday. I strolled along the harbour of nearby St Peter Port, the island's enchanting capital and into the labyrinth of cobbled streets lined with elegant Georgian houses, boutiques, historic pubs and gourmet restaurants.

Not surprisingly the island's cuisine has been influenced by the continent. Le Petit Bistro, an authentic French eatery in the heart of the capital, is perfect for a romantic dinner. Its faded photographs and mismatched furniture add to the rustic atmosphere. Head chef Mickael Pesrin has created a menu inspired by his native Brittany, including delicious pan-fried duck with garlic and thyme.

The Pavilion in the rebuilt outbuildings of a 16th-century farmhouse in St Saviour is also worth a visit, serving local produce with a twist, thanks partly to the island's famous full-bodied Rocquette cider.

I had slow-roasted pork with apple mash and Rocquette gravy followed by a huge slice of Rocquette cheesecake.

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I stayed at the four-star Bella Luce hotel in the sleepy parish of St Martin. Originally a Norman manor house, this boutique bolthole has been restored and its 18 rooms now marry period features such as four-posters and antique-style furniture with modern décor of clean, neutral tones. The six luxury rooms are all individually styled; mine featured an extravagant Victorian rolltop bath as its centrepiece.

Guernsey may be one of Britain's sunniest spots but the lapping water still forced a sharp intake of breath as I hauled my kayak along the sand of Portelet Bay the next morning. My guide, Ant, led the way and pointed out the jagged boulder where he'd spotted a seal just hours before. We paddled alongside fishermen hauling in their catch as we followed the craggy shoreline towards Pezeries Point.

In the hills families wandered between towering pines and in the opposite direction stood the stonewashed Fort Grey tower.

Built in 1804 to hold Napoleon back it's now a shipwreck museum. Beyond that I saw one of many concrete bunkers built by German troops during their five-year occupation.

Back on land I drove past fields of grazing cows and rows of quaint farmhouses, many with roadside boxes stocked high with fresh vegetables; "hedge-veg", as it's known, says a lot about Guernsey life. They are left out for anyone in need of potatoes or carrots, a notice advertising the modest price lies next to an honesty box.

My last day should have been laid-back but an innocuous sign reading "cliff walk" soon put a stop to that. The sun lit up every crevice on granite peaks and nesting seabirds circled as I walked towards Jerbourg Point, arguably the most stunning stretch of Guernsey's coast.

Messages of the heart were scrawled on sand across the otherwise untarnished bays and ahead were the Pea Stacks, rock formations so beautiful they inspired Renoir in 1883.

I pictured the artist at this very spot savouring the views, brush in one hand, a thick slice of gauche in the other. Now that's what I call splendid isolation.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Aurigny Air Services (01481 822886/www.aurigny.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Guernsey from £66.

Bella Luce (01481 238764/ www.bellalucehotel.com) offers doubles from £130 per night (two sharing), B&B.

Outdoor Guernsey (01481 267627/www.outdoorguernsey.co.uk) offers a range of sea kayaking excursions from £28pp.

Guernsey tourism: 01481 723552/ www.visitguernsey.com