As Stockholm, Sweden puts on the glitz today to celebrate the marriage of Crown Princess Victoria to Daniel Westling, JANE MEMMLER visits Sweden's capital

BUILT on 14 islands that are connected by 40 bridges, Stockholm, Sweden might be described as a navigational Sudoku. Yet this vibrant city is surprisingly compact and easy to explore, with a wealth of fascinating attractions. Stockholmers are a modern, no-nonsense people and surprisingly liberal. They are also incredibly attractive and polite.

This extends across all echelons of society, including members of the royal family who are often spotted wandering around the city and jogging in the parks, devoid of the usual presence of protection officers. It's all part of the appeal of this city.

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WHERE TO EAT
Meeting for coffee and cake is a popular pastime. Head to the beautifully preserved medieval town of Gamla Stan, set on its own island.

Behind the imposing Royal Palace, narrow alleyways lined with tiny houses painted in warm mustards and terracottas lead to the 13th-century Stortorget. Once a medieval marketplace, the charming cobblestone square is home to the famed Nobel Museum whose café chairs are signed by past prize winners.

Kaffeekoppen, with its low wicker seats, serves up a mean hot chocolate, fabulous sandwiches, pies and mouthwatering cakes.

Another Swedish speciality is the infamous six-course smörgåsbord.

Correct etiquette is important - start with herrings and bread, move on to heavier dishes such as sausages, ham, meatballs and salmon, then finish with cake and ice cream.

Book a waterfront table at the Grand Hôtel (dialling from the UK, 00 46 8 6793500/www.grandhotel.se) and dine in elegant surroundings served by waiters in black tie.

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The Grand is also home to Mathias Dahlgren's Michelin-starred restaurants, Matsalen (The Dining Room) and Matbaren (The Food Bar) (679 3584/www.mathiasdahlgren.com). Rated 25th in the World's 50 Best Restaurants, the food is not to be missed.

Try sashimi of salmon with reindeer, beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke, finishing with rhubarb dream at Matbaren, with its rustic wooden tables, brightly tiled floor and oversized chairs by British designer, Ilse Crawford. Around £200 for two with wine.

For a taste of France, dining at the Brasserie le Rouge (5052 4460/ www.lerouge.se) in Gamla Stan is decadent and fun. Velvet-covered chairs sit below canopies of draped red silk, gilt-framed Rubenesque paintings and low-hanging lights.

Specialities include roasted farm rabbit with herbs and gnocchi.

Around £150 for two with wine.

Foodies should head to Östermalm Food Hall (Östermalmstorg) in the city centre. Originally designed as a Romanesque cathedral of food in 1885, it has elaborately carved wooden stalls and beautifully displayed produce.
Buy superb Swedish delicacies such as caviar and smoked salmon.

DON'T MISS
The astounding Vasa Museum (519 54800/www.vasamuseet.se) on the island of Djurgården. The Vasa, a 230ft royal battleship, sank on her maiden voyage before it had even left Stockholm's harbour in 1628.

It was discovered barely damaged when it was salvaged in 1961 and for decades underwent painstaking restoration. Adorned with more than 700 carved sculptures, 95 per cent of the wood is original.

A miniature reconstruction provides a glimpse of just how shocking the living conditions were for the sailors who had to endure low roofs, low light and basic facilities.

RETAIL THERAPY
Stockholm isn't big on bargains. What it is renowned for is its cutting-edge style. Sweden was, after all, the country that brought modern and functional furniture to the high street with Ikea.

From fashion to interiors, there's plenty to tempt you in the boutiques dotted across town.

Hire a personal shopper from Smart City Shopping (611 5600/ www.smartcityshopping.se) who can tailor-make tours. Around £40 per hour.

Floaty fans will love the pretty floral prints and hand knits at Odd Molly (13 Humlegårdsgatan).
DesignTorget (16 Nybrogatan) specialises in funky homewares such as hooks featuring coloured sparrows, £13, and fun printed dishcloths, £4.

At somSara (37 Österlånggatan), illustrator Sara N Bergman has displayed her lifetime collection of pretty furnishings and fashions in this veritable treasure trove, including beautiful handmade soaps, £4; handmade porcelain bowls, £10; simple silk dresses, £45; and religious necklaces from India.

They all sit perfectly in this glorious, whitewashed space.

OFFSHORE
The Stockholm archipelago has more than 30,000 islands, islets and skerries. It would be a shame not to explore at least one.

The closest is Fjäderholmarna; the Feather Islands, a group of four a 25-minute boat ride away. You'll pass restored warehouses, tiny wooded islands and royal palaces on the way.

On Feather Island, pretty red wooden houses are dotted around its edges. Walking tracks and old boats make exploring fun. Little huts house craft shops selling nautically-themed handicrafts, including a glass-blowing workshop, a potter and a couple of restaurants.

The only sound you'll hear is passing boats and birds. Boats depart Stockholm every hour and cost £8 return. Tickets available from the ticket booth at Nybroplan.

THE HOTEL
The InterContinental Grand Hôtel is a classic landmark in the city centre.

Located on the city's waterfront, opposite the Royal Palace and Old Town, its 360 rooms are more classic than contemporary. Some could do with a little updating, yet the service and position are unrivalled.

Its Raison d'Etre spa is a stunning oasis featuring traditional Swedish massage, plunge pools and saunas.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
British Airways (0844 493 0758/www.ba.com/citybreaks) is offers two nights at the InterContinental Grand Hôtel from £300pp (two sharing), room only. Price includes return BA flights from Heathrow.

Visit Sweden: 0207 108 6168/ www.visitsweden.com/citybreaks