FOR a tiny volcanic rock in the Caribbean Sea, St Lucia has become a very big destination says JAMES CABOOTER

Boasting a carnival and jazz festival, this wee island St Lucia, Caribbean (just 27 miles long and 14 miles wide) is punching above its weight and pounding the competition.

Its combination of unspoilt beauty and activities from kite surfing to horse riding makes it perfect for romance and adventure.

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We visited during the annual May Jazz Festival, which actually features the gamut of pop, soul, blues, reggae and creole and this year showcased Ne-Yo and Corinne Bailey Rae.

Most events take place outdoors on Pigeon Island, a 40-acre islet connected by a causeway to St Lucia and housing the remains of an 18th century British fort.

Be prepared for all-day drinking and dancing. A few shows also run at St Lucia’s biggest club, the Gaiety, a great night out all year round.

Canopy
We stayed first at the all-inclusive Sandals Grande in the north. Dine à la carte, sip champagne cocktails and enjoy spa treatments without having to carry a penny in your bum bag. 

For a more exclusive experience, Millionaire Suites have private plunge pools, views across the sea and a cabinet of the finest rum.

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Outside the resort, we took an aerial zip-wire trek through the rainforest canopy at Babonneau.

Suited like Polish builders, we zoomed from tree to tree. It’s exhausting but a great way to view the lush local flora.

Later we moved down the coast to the Almond Morgan Bay resort. It felt more Mediterranean and looked rougher round the edges but in some ways this gave it a more laid-back vibe.

We also checked out the Spanish-style villas of Cap Maison. Set atop a private ocean front bluff with magical sunset views, it combines luxury, charm and five-star service.

With a secluded beach below, many spacious suites have private roof terraces and pools and you can self-cater or dine at the gorgeous sea-view restaurant.

After a fabulous few days enjoying the north’s laidback markets and reggae parties, it was time to experience some southern love. We took a boat to the famous Piton Mountains – a pair of coastal peaks listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Approaching the west coast we spotted a voluptuous modern building sprouting from a vast palm-tree-lined rock face.

Looking uncannily like Tracy Island from Thunderbirds, this is the Jade Mountain resort. Among the rugged columns, architect and owner Nick Troubetzkoy has designed a stunning complex complete with butler service. Bedrooms and living rooms adjoin private infinity pools like luxury viewing platforms.

Lush
Whether or not you’re staying here, try award-winning chef Allen Susser’s exquisite West Indian fusion menu.

Bellies full, we ventured out on to the private beach for a quick snorkel around the coral. Then it was back into the boat for our final port of call – the Jalousie Foundation.

Nestling directly between the Piton Mountains, this luxurious private Caribbean beach of white sand is framed by 100 acres of lush rainforest – the site of an 18th century sugar plantation.

The original vintage rooms retain their French-Caribbean charm, while new luxury villas boast four-poster beds and butler service. Jalousie also offers a full PADI dive facility, waterfront dining, chic bars and lounges.

A snoozing volcano lies up the road and a wallow in the volcanic mud worked a treat on my sunburn.

Later it was back down the mountain for a cocktail or three in the resort’s relaxing bar.

Back home, I’m tempted to quit my job and become a hotel chambermaid – just to be back on that idyllic island paradise.

FACT FILE
JAMES stayed at Sandals Grande St Lucian Spa & Beach Resort. Seven nights staying in a Grande Deluxe Room costs from £1,609 per person. Price includes accommodation, return flights and hotel transfers for travel between September 3 and 10.

To book or for more information call 0800 742 742 or visit sandals.co.uk

Other hotels visited included Almond Morgan Bay (almondresorts.co.uk), Cap Maison (capmaison.com), Jalousie
Plantation (thejalousieplantation.co.uk) and Jade Mountain (jademountain.com).

For more details on St Lucia visit stlucia.org or call 0207 341 7000. Visit stlucia-jazz.org for more information on St Lucia Jazz Festival.