THE wrinkly-faced woman with the squinting eyes considered me for a while before thrusting out a hand says MARIANNA PARTASIDES

"Come, " she said. "You want coffee?" I had been trying to work out why she was staring at me.

She had been trying to work out which language to use before extending the traditional Lebanese hospitality.

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So I joined her on the street stall for a small cup of the dark stuff - thick like porridge, gravelly like sand, and strong like all good coffee. I was in Beirut - the bustling, busy and friendly capital of Lebanon.

This once war-torn city is rebuilding itself to become a vibrant beachside destination once more.

Like many Mediterranean resorts, it offers sun, sea, great food and rich culture. And the only thing warmer than the weather is the people.

Beirut's east district, Hamra, is old and colourful. Its vast grid of crumbling buildings is bursting with life.

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It is the perfect place to stroll and absorb the country's diverse cultures, which happily rub shoulders with one another.

It is also home to the city's main shopping street, Rue Hamra, where European boutiques nestle next to Lebanese coffee houses and even the odd Starbucks.

Throngs of people buzz along the pavements day and night, while the dusty roads are jammed with thousands of cars going hell for leather in different directions.

Thanks to Lebanese drivers' fondness for beeping their horns, it's also pretty noisy. But you get used to the hubbub - and even miss it when you leave the centre.

A five-minute cab ride away is the downtown district. It was reduced to rubble during Lebanon's civil war but it is now one of the smartest places in the country.

Like a phoenix from the ashes, it was rebuilt in the style of a Parisian suburb, doffing its cap to the country's former French occupiers with its wide-open boulevards and Venetian-style buildings.

Some big-name fashion houses have set up shop downtown now, alongside the antique stores. And the classy cafés and restaurants are perfect for lunch.

The Lebanese parliament house is here, too, at the Place D'Etoile, so security in the area is strict.

After a short walk across the main road, you will stumble into beautiful Gemmayzeh, one of the city's new hip areas.

It's packed with grotto-like bars and restaurants with eats from sushi to burgers, and trendy young things hang out there day and night.

No trip to Beirut is complete without a visit to the Corniche, the grand waterfront parade which wraps around the city's coastline.

The best time to go is on a Sunday when the locals go for a family feast by the sea before parading up and down in the sunshine, a bit like an old-fashioned Brighton.

Food is a big part of Lebanese life, with Middle Eastern-style meze served up cheaply everywhere. But for a quick snack every street has a stall selling delicious hot kebab wraps called Shawarmas, while bakeries and patisseries serve up syrupy treats.

There is a string of good hotels on the waterfront suburbs. But the best one to get a feel for the city is the plush Le Meridien Commodore in Hamra, one of Lebanon's finest.

As well as stunning views of the city and sea beyond, it offers a safe and luxurious haven, with several high-standard restaurants and friendly staff. Even the lobby's coffee bar has become one of the city's social hotspots.
Lebanon's rich cultural history means it has a choice of breathtaking ancient sites to ruin.

The impressive stone-built city of Baalbek is nestled deep in the Bekaa Valley and overlooked by Lebanon's snow-capped mountains.

When I visited there were only two other people there, so we retraced the footsteps of this ancient world in eerie silence.

I climbed over vast boulders, trotted around the steps of the ancient Temple of Bacchus and craned my neck to follow the rows of the endless columns as they tickled the clouds.

The expansive ancient city is truly a wannabe explorer's playground. It is a two-hour car journey, despite only being 85km from Beirut, winding up and wrapping round the mountains. But believe me - it's worth it.

A bit nearer to Beirut, and just a 40-minute drive up the coast, is the harbour town of Byblos. An ancient town at least 7,000 years old, it has examples of Greek, Ottoman, Byzantine and Roman empires.

One of the great landmarks is the Crusader Castle, from the top of which you can see the Roman colonnade, the trader's house and the harbour and sea beyond.

There is also a thriving souk at this seaside city of ruins, where you can pick up fossils found in the limestone hills around. The harbour also has some fish tavernas overlooking the still active harbour, with lovely Lebanese fare, perfect for lunch before heading back to Beirut in the afternoon.

Private taxis booked at the hotel are the best way to get around Lebanon from Beirut. You might need to haggle over the price, but they ensure comfort and safety.

It is easy to get to Lebanon, popping over on a connecting flight from Cyprus. And Cyprus Airways offers well-timed connections through to the UK.

So it's easy to enjoy some of that Lebanese hospitality - and maybe a cup of coffee or two.

FACT FILE
FLY daily from London Heathrow to Beirut, via Larnaca in Cyprus, with Cyprus Airways until October 30.

Flights leave Stansted to Beirut, via Larnaca, on Sundays, returning daily between Sunday and Wednesday, until October 30.

Flights from Manchester to Beirut, via Larnaca, depart Monday, Tuesday and Friday and return Monday and Tuesday, until October 30.

Prices start at £163 return plus taxes, subject to availability. See cyprusair.com or call the reservations department on 020 8359 1333.

Marianna stayed at Le Commodore Meridien in the Hamra district of Beirut - a safe and well-located hotel in the heart of the city with wonderful views, use of a spa and gym and a selection of top restaurants.

Visit lemeridien-beirut.com for more information.