MARTYN BROWN explores the Lycian Coast by land and sea on an unforgettable journey

I'M FLOATING in pristine, turquoise waters where Cleopatra is thought to have once bathed. To my left, through the shimmering rays of sunlight, is a beautiful, pine-clad island with not a soul on it. To my right, bobbing gently, is a traditional wooden gulet which will be my home for the next two days.

I am on the ancient, idyllic Lycian Coast, otherwise known as the Turquoise Coast, in south-west Turkey.

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My trip began in the yachting mecca of Göcek, a pretty seaside town backed by rugged mountains and pine forests only 30 minutes' drive from Dalaman Airport.

Excitedly, myself and my fellow tourists, a mix of Americans, Canadians and Britons, had boarded our sailing ship, leaving our shoes on the gangway, to explore our wood-panelled, en-suite cabins. After donning my swimming shorts I was soon back on deck marvelling at the magical coastline.

Our 100ft, six-cabin boat, the Yucel Star, came complete with a knowledgeable captain, chef and attentive deckhand.
Originally goods boats, the gulet's twin masts are now mainly for show, while today's cargo consists of holidaymakers rather than pots, pans, silks and spices.

With the engines purring gently as we left the marina, we congregated under the canopied eating area for a Turkish mezze-style breakfast of eggs, olives, cheeses, tomatoes, melons and cherries.

Soon we arrived at our first destination, an uninhabited island covered in pine trees and lapped by more inviting waters.

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We spend our days swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing as we navigate our way around a series of delightful bays. Lunches and evening meals are a mix of freshly prepared lamb kebabs, sea bass, tuna, rice and vegetables accompanied by delicious Turkish salads.

We sleep off our feasts on sunbeds on deck, dreaming away the lazy hours between lunch and our next swim.
By night, the deck becomes our dormitory under the stars.

We gaze dreamily at the great band of the Milky Way before being rocked to sleep by the gentle sway of the boat.

My new sailing buddies and I spend our time putting the world to rights and playing cards while sipping cool Turkish beer or the local firewater, raki, an aniseed spirit similar to ouzo which is surprisingly refreshing after a long day in the sun. All too soon, our two-day voyage is over and it is time to say our goodbyes. For the others, it is off to the natural wonder of Pamukkale (meaning "cotton castle" in Turkish), a series of calcified waterfalls and hot springs, followed by the historical wonders of Ephesus, Troy and Gallipoli.

The rest of my trip is spent discovering the ancient and natural wonders of the Lyc ian Coast.

My next stop is the harbour town of Fethiye, 30 miles south of Göcek, on the site of the ancient city of Telmessos with its ruined hillside amphitheatre and rock-carved Tomb of Amyntas. One of the oldest Anatolian civilisations, Telmessos dates back to 500 BC.

An earthquake in 1957 levelled Fethiye but it retains a unique charm. Its centre, an ancient bazaar-like tangle of shady, narrow streets is packed with tempting restaurants, relaxing cafés and shops piled high with brightly coloured Turkish plates, fragrant spices and elaborate hubble-bubble pipes.

Watching the hustle and bustle of Fethiye's markets is exhausting work so what better way to unwind than a Turkish bath? Or so I thought. Deep in the bowels of the Old Town, Paspatur, lies Fethiye's main hammam. Dressed in just a thin wraparound sarong, called a "pestemal", I tentatively enter the hot room to work up a sweat while washing myself with refreshingly cool water. After 20 minutes I'm perspiring more than following any gym workout.

It is then that I am greeted by the assistant or "tellak", a Goliath of a man who looks like he wrestles bears for a living. Within seconds he has slapped me on to a marble table, known as the "gobek tasi" or navel stone, centred in the middle of the steamy hammam and set about washing and massaging me with the delicacy of a panel beater.
 
Some 45 minutes later and considerably cleaner, I return to my base, the modern Hotel Kemal on Fethiye's waterfront.

The next day I set off to explore one of the jewels of this stretch of coast, the resort of Ölüdeniz, a spectacular 20-minute drive from Fethiye. Ölüdeniz simply means "blue lagoon" and I spend my final morning swimming in its warm waters as daredevil paragliders corkscrew above.

A short hop away lies the ghost town of Kayaköy. Once a thriving Greek community, its 1,000 houses, 14 churches and two schools were abandoned in 1923 when the inhabitants, along with more than a million other Greeks living throughout Turkey, were repatriated.

As I stand among the crumbling buildings, with only the breeze from the mountains and mist from the sea blowing through its ruined houses and streets, I dream of being back on the gulet and swimming in the calm, clear waters of the turquoise sea.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Imaginative Traveller (0845 077 8803/www.imaginative-traveller.co.uk) offers a 19-day Turkish Odyssey tour from £945pp (two sharing), B&B.

Price includes a two-night gulet cruise and transfers. Imaginative Traveller can arrange return flights to Istanbul.

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office: 0207 839 7778/www.gototurkey.co.uk