With the People's Republic of China now firmly on the tourist map, STUART KERSHAW is entranced by its must-see destinations

SPECTACULAR, dramatic, beautiful. Those are just three words which describe the Three Gorges on China's Yangtze River, and the scenery is all this and more. Limestone peaks shrouded in mist tower up to 4,000ft from the riverbanks.

The jade colour of the river in this, its most scenic stretch, enhances the natural beauty. A simply gorges experience.

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I was on board Victoria Cruises' MV Jenna for a three-day sailing trip as part of Uniworld's 12-day China Highlights escorted tour.

The rocky sculptures of the first gorge, Qutang Xia, signalled the treats ahead. This ship with five passenger decks can accommodate up to 378 guests and is one of the most elegant on the Yangtze. It has sparkling chandeliers and gleaming wood throughout and each suite has a balcony.

Next came the 25-mile Wu Gorge with forest-covered mountains and cliffs so sheer the sun can hardly penetrate.
Switching to a smaller boat, I joined other passengers to explore a tributary, the Daning River, and its equally stunning Lesser Three Gorges: Dragon Gate, Misty and Emerald.

I saw rhesus monkeys strolling along branches and goats perched precariously on inclines. A remarkable sight was two coffins tucked in caves high above the water. They're thought to be 2,000 years old and contain the remains of leaders of the lost Ba people.

The narrowest stretch of the Daning is known as Earthly Paradise, one of China's top beauty spots. As winter was giving way to spring, the sun pierced heavy clouds to make the vistas even more contrasting. The boatman treated us to an ancient folk song before we returned to our mother ship for a sumptuous Chinese feast.

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After sailing through Xiling, the last of the Three Gorges and the longest at 41 miles, I watched the boat's night-time passage through a series of locks, all lit-up so we could see the Jenna being lowered hundreds of feet.

During our journey we had seen homes seemingly glued to mountainsides and historical sites described as a "String of Pearls" on the Yangtze. These included the White Emperor City of temples and pavilions, the refuge of poets hoping to be inspired by its views.

If, like a rather large gentleman travelle, you can't face the 400-odd steps, two-man teams will carry you up in a bamboo sedan chair for around £10, and back down for the same price.

Our cruise ended at Yichang but my adventure had started with a three-day visit to Beijing, and the Hilton hotel provided the perfect base for exploring.

On my first morning I headed to the Summer Palace.

Construction began in the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234) and by the time of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) it had become a luxurious royal residence.

In the courtyards I watched seniors practise t'ai chi, not to mention calligraphy, standing with a sort of 3ft felt-tip pen dipped in water to write on flagstones. T'ai chi keeps the body strong, calligraphy the mind alert.

Nearby is the Forbidden City, built between 1406-1420, which remained the royal residence until the Last Emperor Puyi was expelled in 1911.

I entered through The Gate of Heavenly Peace of Tiananmen Square, the largest city square in the world and scene of the 1989 massacre. The contrast between the square and the Forbidden City seems to reflect the nation as a whole, a land of ancient wonders yet also a showcase for the modern as witnessed by the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

It was a magical experience walking into the inner sanctum to see the living quarters of the emperors, empresses and concubines. It was during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) that advisers decided that unlimited concubines were sapping the emperor's strength and their numbers should be restricted. The limit? Just the 72!

Little over an hour's drive away is the Great Wall of China, first started in 700BC to keep out marauders before the country became unified.

Today the invaders come from far and wide to marvel at the world's largest man-made structure.

On another day I look a rickshaw ride to a family home for lunch in a cramped kitchen where my host used just two woks to produce tasty dishes of pork, chicken, rice and fried vegetables.

I declined a shot of clear, 56 per cent alcohol "Chinese firewater" served from a jar with 50 dead scorpions at the bottom. Talk about a drink with a sting in its tail.

After a short flight from Beijing I arrived at the ancient capital Xi'an.

Its star attraction is the Terracotta Warriors. These life-sized statues and horses, built to defend the tomb of China's First Emperor Qin Shi Huang, were discovered in 1974 by local farmers drilling a well.

They're a breathtaking sight and there's the exciting prospect of more to come.

So far 8,000 figures have been excavated from just three burial pits but experts believe there are around 180 pits still to be found.

Another short flight took us to Chongqing where we were to board MV Jenna for our cruise down the Yangtze but not before a trip to the city zoo to see its eight giant pandas. They all looked very laid-back munching on bamboo in single-accommodation enclosures, as they prefer a solitary life.

The zoo has one of the few successful breeding programmes for pandas and one mother has produced three cubs.

My final destination was Shanghai, China's largest port where East meets West in a neon wonderland of spaghetti-style junctions. Here I marvelled at the 1,535ft Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the old town market and promenade.

Confucius said: "Wheresoever you go, go with all your heart."

I did and mine was captured by the many wonders of this extraordinary country.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Titan HiTours (0800 988 5858/www.titanhitours.co.uk) offers the Uniworld 12-day China Highlights with a Yangtze River Cruise tour from £2,145pp (two sharing), half board. Includes two nights in Shanghai, one in Xi'an, three in Beijing and four nights full board on a Victoria Cruises riverboat.

Price includes flights from Heathrow to Shanghai with return from Beijing, internal flights and UK transfers with Titan VIP Home Departure Service.

China National Tourist Office: 0207 373 0888/www.cnto.org.uk