HOLLY THOMAS returns to her old holiday seaside haunt of Newport, Wales

WALKING along the sweeping Pembrokeshire coast path I stop to admire the view and catch my breath. The sight of the crashing waves over Newport's sandy, mile-long beach framed by a grassy headland is stunning and makes me proud to be Welsh.

I have come to Newport, not to be confused with its South Wales namesake, for some relaxation and clean, fresh air.
It's been 10 years since my last of many weekends spent here with friends. I'm delighted to see it's as unspoilt as ever.

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I am staying at Llys Meddyg, a Georgian townhouse that husband and wife team Ed and Louise have transformed into a stylish restaurant with rooms.

The pair, who escaped the fast pace of London life to return to their roots, have modernised yet have retained treasured original features such as open fireplaces and wooden floors.

My room, one of eight, is at the top of the house and has a super kingsize bed, a comfy sofa, white walls and shutters.

On the bed are contemporary navy and white patterned bed throws and cushions from local designer mill Melin Tregwynt.

From the window I admire the craggy outcrops of Carningli Mountain, known as the "mountain of the angels" after the Celtic Saint Brynach experienced visions and conversations with angels.

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The hotel is on the main street in this charming coastal town which is an ideal gateway to explore the 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, which is famed for its steep limestone cliffs, undulating red sandstone bays, volcanic headlands and flooded glacial valleys.

I take a walk from Newport towards Poppit Sands, a 15-mile trek I will not be completing, this time.

Newport's Welsh name, Trefdraeth, translates as "town by the beach". It actually has two, Newport Sands and Newport Parrog, separated by the estuary of the river Nyfer, or Nevern in English. The Sands is a vast mile-long beach backed by dunes and a windsurfer's paradise, while Parrog is smaller and has more shingle.

The Nevern Estuary is a favourite haunt of sea birds and waders and I manage to spot a few herons.

Ed and Louise are full of suggestions of things to do and see. Top of their list is to sample the bitter at a unique drinking hole, The Dyffryn Arms at Pontfaen in the Gwaun Valley.

To get here you'll need a car and first gear. It's about a 10-minute drive and while the steep hills are tricky, it's well worth the wear on your clutch.

Run by Bessie Davies, who turned 80 this year, she serves real ale from a jug decanted directly from the barrel through a hatch from her front room.

The place smells of stale beer, the furniture is rickety and the wallpaper stained and peeling but it's Bessie's warm character that shines through as she joins the punters for a chat by the fire. She doesn't serve food, though, unless you count crisps.

Happily, I have plans to eat back at the hotel anyway.

Llys Meddyg is a foodies' heaven. Ed and resident chef Scott Davis, who has worked for celebrity chef Marco Pierre White among others, are both passionate about using top-notch, local ingredients.

I tucked into scallops served with honey-roasted belly pork and a pea puree, followed by Pembrokeshire beef fillet with a horseradish mash and fricasse of wild mushrooms.

The dessert is to die for, a rich chocolate and coconut mousse with peanut butter ice cream.
 
There is also a cosy bar in the cellar with inviting leather sofas, a perfect place to sit and sample one of the many wines from an impressive list.

Wanting to take home something to remind me of my trip, I visit the family-run Melin Tregwynt in Castlemorris and treat myself to a throw that cost £85. Well, their designs are no less than fabulous, after all.

Nearby is a lovely secluded pebbled beach called Abermawr. From here there's a 12-mile walk along the spectacular coastal path to Abereiddi. I plan to return and pick up where I left off on the coast path. Two miles down, only 184 to go.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Welsh Rarebits Hotels of Distinction (01686 668030/ www.rarebits.co.uk) offers doubles at Llys Meddyg (www.llysmeddyg.com) from £100 per night (two sharing), B&B.

Llys Meddyg Restaurant offers three-courses for £32. Avis (0844 544 5715/www.avis.co.uk) has daily car hire from £39.

Visit Pembrokeshire: 01239 820912/www.visitpembrokeshire.com