In the latest in our series, ANNA MELVILLE-JAMES explores Northumberland's windswept Holy Island

THREE MILES off Northumberland's coast, Lindisfarne, or "Holy Island", is Britain's most mystical haven, accessible only twice daily when its causeway magically appears from the tidal brine.

An important Christian centre during the Dark Ages, St Aidan first founded a monastery here in the 7th century. The monks fled when the Vikings came marauding a century later and worship was disrupted again by the 16th-century Dissolution of the Monasteries.

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Today, the island's bleak beauty draws visitors to contemplate the divine, and the divine scenery, on retreats, day trips or short breaks.

Its two square miles include a fishing village, remains of a medieval priory and castle.

SUITS YOU The island's most prominent feature, Lindisfarne Castle, perches dramatically on Beblowe Crag, a mile from the village (take the shuttle minibus if you're feeling lazy). Built for defence in the 16th century and later turned into a home by Edwardian architect Edward Lutyens, the castle has several 19th-century lime kilns, which are a legacy of Lindisfarne's lime-burning industry.

Close by, the Benedictine priory, rebuilt in the 11th century, is now a forest of ruins and arches, with lovely grounds for a picnic. The history of the priory, effectively the history of the island itself, and an electronic version of the famous Gospels are on display at the visitor centre.

Enjoy sunrise views from the hill at the island's south end, or stroll the sand dunes and tidal flats, part of the Lindisfarne Nature Reserve.

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The most exhilarating way to see the coastline, though, is on a beach horse ride: Kimmerston Riding Centre (01668 216283/www.kimmerston.com) on the mainland offers rides through the surf.

A one-hour canter costs from £20 per adult, £12 per child.

LAZING AND GRAZING The island's contemplative nature means you won't find big hotels or flashy boutique B&Bs. Holy Island has traditionally drawn pilgrims and today Christian retreats are offered at The Open Gate and Marygate House.

For secular stays, accommodation is a mix of self-catering, B&Bs and guesthouses. There are four simple rooms at the Crown & Anchor Inn (01289 389215/www.holyislandcrown.co.uk) in Lindisfarne village, which has the bonus of offering one of the island's few restaurants (sample dishes include homemade fish cakes and lamb shank in red wine).

Doubles from £80 per night (two sharing), B&B.

The Ship Inn (01289 389311/www.theshipinn-holyisland.co.uk) has four rooms and a menu of local produce.

Doubles from £104 per night (two sharing), B&B.

GETTING THERE:
Walk across the flats from Beal at low tide with a guide, take bus 477 from Berwick-upon-Tweed or drive over (note tide and crossing times).

Northumberland Tourism: 01670 794520/www.visitnorthumberland.com