In the latest of our series on the UK's best ferry routes, NORMAN MILLER takes in the historic naval town of Portsmouth and the beautiful beaches of Spain's Santander

PORTSMOUTH
Sails dominate this historic south coast port, from the billowing architectural curves of the 21st-century Spinnaker Tower (02392 87520/www.spinnakertower.co.uk) to the stars of the atmospheric Historic Dockyard (02392 839766/ www.historicdockyard.co.uk).

These include Nelson's flagship HMS Victory, HMS Warrior 1860 and Henry VIII's capsized Mary Rose.

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A tour of Victory provides an informative glimpse inside a glorious player in Britain's past while artefacts raised from the Mary Rose give a wonderful insight into Tudor life at the Mary Rose Museum (02392 812 931/ www.maryrose.org). The ship is still having her fragile timbers treated before going on public display.

However Portsmouth has less well-known attractions.

Literary fans can visit Charles Dickens's Birthplace Museum (02392 827 261/www.charlesdickensbirthplace.co.uk) to see the childhood home of Britain's greatest novelist. Portsmouth City Museum (02392 827 261/ www.portsmouthcitymuseums.co.uk) mixes a permanent collection with excellent temporary exhibitions. It is currently pairing Sherlock Holmes with aliens.

If the retail hubbub of Gunwharf Quays palls, walk to the atmospheric Georgian and Victorian lanes of the Old Town, dominated by the city's cathedral.

A lternatively, follow the Millennium Promenade on its two-mile route, marked by a chain motif set into a stone path, from the 17th-century Spur Redoubt to the historic small boat landing area known as The Hard.

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STAY: The Clarence hotel (023 9287 6348/www.theclarencehotel.co.uk) offers doubles from £85 (two sharing), B&B.

INFO: Visit Portsmouth: 023 9282 6722/ www.visitportsmouth.co.uk

THE FERRY
Operated by Brittany Ferries (0871 244 0744/www.brittany-ferries.co.uk), the MV Pont-Aven is one of Europe's most modern and luxurious ferries.

Accommodation for the 24-hour crossing ranges from small en-suites to spacious Commodore cabins. On board are two cinemas, a casino and shops, while the main restaurant claims to serve the best food in Portsmouth when the ship is in dock. Return fares from £366 for a car and two people, sharing a cabin.

SANTANDER
The capital of Cantabria in northern Spain boasts a sandy necklace of nearly a dozen beautiful beaches.

The most famous are the elegant park-backed sands of El Sardinero but others include the mile-long Playa de la Magdalena and Playa de los Bikinis.

Though Santander dates back to Roman times, the present city's elegant style comes from the 19th century when it became a favoured haunt of Spanish royalty. The Royal Palace, reputedly based on Balmoral, crowns the Magdalena peninsula and though you can't go inside, do wander the beautiful gardens with views over the Piquio Park and El Sardinero. Other fabulous sights include the neo-classical Museo de Bellas Artes with its Spanish, Italian and Flemish paintings from the 16th century and the Centro Cultural Caja Cantabria (known as Modesto Tapia). Also visit the modern art showcase Nave Sotoliva in the Fishing Quarter.

This is also the perfect place to sample Cantabria's delicious fusion of food from the sea and nearby mountains.

Look out for rabas (squid), bocartes rebozados (whitebait) and the traditional cocido montañés (a stew of beans, meat and cabbage). El Marucho on Calle Tetuan is a favourite.

STAY: Hotel Vincci Puertochico (dialling from the UK: 0034 942 225 200/www.vinccihoteles.com) offers doubles from €106, £89, (two sharing), room only.

INFO: Spain Tourist Board: 020 7486 8077/ www.spain.info