This equestrian adventure is a perfect mix of exercises and excursions, especially for a novice in the saddle like JINI REDDY

FOR years, I had fantasised about going on a riding holiday. There was just one small problem: I didn't know how to ride.

As an equestrian-mad friend once said to me: "Why would you want to go on a riding holiday if you can't ride?" So nine months ago, I started taking twice-monthly lessons at Stag Lodge, a riding centre in London's leafy Richmond Park, in preparation for my break to Rendola Riding, an organic farm and riding centre in the glorious wine region of Chianti in Tuscany.

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My four-night Taste Of Tuscany break was a combination of lessons, hacks in the countryside (riders are grouped according to ability), picnics, walks and sightseeing. Activities are optional so I could choose just to nap in the shade of a wisteria tree or read one of the books from the vast library.

Rendola is owned by Jenny Bawtree, a 67-year-old Briton who has lived in Italy for more than 40 years. She started the riding club in the late Sixties after teaching English at the University of Florence. Even though the emphasis is on riding, the farm will happily accommodate absolute beginners or "do nothingers" as Jenny calls activity-shunning guests.

It's perfect for anyone who fancies a slice of bucolic Tuscan bliss. The farmhouse, thought to date back to the 14th century, is nestled in 12 acres of olive groves with sweeping views over the Arno Valley and has six comfortable guest rooms. While it was a treat to huddle round the fire in the sitting room hearth on a chilly evening, the dining room is the real hub of the house for it's there that the communal meals take place.

Joining the holiday were members of a large Italian family.

They've been coming here for more than 25 years while Debbie, a 50-something accountant from New Jersey, was on her fourth visit.

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Lessons are flexible, depending on your interests and abilities.

My first two-hour tutorial was spent in the ring getting to grips with Cosimo, a sturdy trail horse.

My instructor, Eraldo, was a born teacher, telling me to breathe deeply, advising what to do with my knees and cracking jokes. "The key to riding well is balance and posture, " he said as Debbie and I were instructed to walk and then trot our mounts around the ring, with our feet out of the stirrups.

The next morning we wandered through the village of Mercatale Valdarno, a market place in medieval times. We rode over the remains of a Roman road built by Emperor Hadrian in AD123 and through vineyards and tall grasses punctuated with wild flowers.

"Trotto, " cried Jenny, in the lead, our cue to break into a gentle trot.

Meals at Rendola consist of pasta, naturally, followed by a Tuscan speciality such as involtini - slices of beef wrapped around mortadella with fontina cheese and then baked.

There is, of course, plenty of locally produced chianti to wash it all down.

Out of the saddle, we took an excursion to nearby Arezzo.

In pre-Roman times the city was an Etruscan stronghold. Today it boasts a beautiful main square, the Piazza Grande, lined with cafés and antique shops and medieval delights including the famous Piero della Francesca frescoes in the Basilica di San Francesco.

Still, my heart lies with the horses and on the last day Eraldo, the Sicilian charmer, took us out for a full day's ride. That's a tall order for a novice with stiff knees but the scenery and sunshine were so enchanting I rose to the occasion.

We rode past lakes filled with black bass and trout, through woods that are home to the hare, fox, roe deer and boar and then across a high ridge.

Lunch was a picnic in a glade: strawberry tart had never tasted so good. In the afternoon, as we cantered through a soft rain, I realised there was no looking back.

I may not be an accomplished rider but I was sure a blissed-out one and horses look set to become a permanent fixture in this nag's life.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
In The Saddle (01299 272997/www.inthesaddle.com) offers a four-night Taste Of Tuscany tour from £731pp (two sharing), full board. Price includes three days riding, guided sightseeing and transfers from Florence.

easyJet (0905 821 0905/www.easyjet.com) offers return flights from various UK airports to Pisa from £50.

Tuscany tourism: (dialling from the UK) 00 39 057 363 0145/www.turismointoscana.it; Italian State Tourist Board: 0207 408 1254/www.italiantouristboard.co.uk