Walk in Agatha Christie’s footsteps and enjoy English Riviera scenery to die for says PETER CARBERY

“POISON’S such a great way to kill someone, don’t you think?”

Well yes, I suppose it is, now that you mention it.

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Strolling through the grounds of Torre Abbey the words of genial head gardener Ali are a reminder that murder can spring from the most unlikely of sources.


The sun may be glittering on the waters of the English Riviera close by but it's clear that we are deep in Agatha Christie territory...and I think I know whoduggit.


Take the Bible and Shakespeare out of the equation and you won’t find anyone who has sold as many books as our Agatha; a billion in the English speaking world, as many again in 70 different languages. 


A true phenomenon, and one marked with a week-long festival next month as Torquay celebrates the 120th anniversary of the birth of its most famous citizen.
 So, how does Ali’s poison fit into all this?


Before embarking on a murder-mystery career that was to span half a century, the teenage Christie became a volunteer nurse during World War 1 and found herself assistant to somewhat eccentric Torquay chemist, who inspired her passion for the kind of medicine just as likely to kill as to cure.


Green-fingered Ali has lovingly – or should that be chillingly? – put together Agatha’s Potent Plants, a murderous collection of cuttings.


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“I sat down and read all 80 of her novels and researched every use of plants and flowers in her plots,” she said, before pointing out morphine, deadly nightshade, ricin, cyanide and other items you mightn’t stumble across at the Chelsea Flower Show.


Fans can try linking plants to their respective novels and murders in the quiz questions dotted around the flower beds.


This quirky approach to the author has secured 12th-Century Torre Abbey’s place on the Agatha Christie Mile, a stroll through Torquay that takes in a dozen points of interest connected to the author's life. 


Tourist guide Joan Nott, who does the walk three times a week, was one of the first to specialise in Christie, long before the town and local tourism woke up to the commercial possibilities.
We started off at the town museum, where a dedicated room details her early years through photos, manuscripts and artifacts.


“She was a great one for rollerskating along the pier and swimming in her favourite Beacon Cove,” revealed the redoubtable Joan, who has more than a touch of the Miss Marple about her. 


Down at the cove we could see how it was overlooked by the Royal Yacht Club, “and the gentlemen would use their binoculars to try and catch a forbidden glimpse of arm or leg”.

No need for binoculars these days, gents.
A few minutes up the road we called in to the swanky five-star Imperial Hotel for some liquid refreshment and the best view across the bay from the terrace bar. Agatha was a regular on the social circuit here, though whether she also drank San Miguel is debatable.


Nor, I suspect, did she ever get to hover 400ft above the town in a tethered balloon, taking in mile upon mile of South Devon countryside.

Had the HiFlier been in business back then, I’m sure she would have been first in the queue…and we’d have been reading about some dastardly mid-air murder mystery.


Speaking of spectacular views, those wanting a gastronomic treat in superb surroundings should head north of the town to Babbacombe Beach, where the Cary Arms pub and terrace restaurant will spoil everywhere else for you. 


It doesn’t get much better than watching the sun set over the beach while tucking in to steak, Devon minted lamb chops or pizza cooked in their own outdoor stone oven.

Two courses, beer, coffee and a bottle of wine came in at around £65…and they threw the scenery in for free.
In 1990, to mark the centenary celebrations of Christie’s birth, an historic meeting took place on the platform of Torquay station.

Hercule Poirot, in the unmistakable shape of David Suchet, stepped off the Paddington train, strolled towards the diminutive figure of Miss Marple (Joan Hickson) and gallantly kissed her outstretched hand.
It was the first time Christie’s two most famous creations had met.
Mindful of the role steam trains played in the author’s work, a trip on the Dartmouth Steam Railway & River Boat was a no-brainer.

Half an hour from Paignton to Kingswear, it passes through the gorgeous South Devon coastline and across spectacular viaducts, two of the finest examples of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s handiwork.
Bagging a posh seat in the observation carriage on the outward journey is well worth the £1.50 supplement (better than on the return, when you have the steam engine directly in front of you).


The five-minute ferry crossing to picturesque Dartmouth gives you a wonderful view of the imposing naval academy, and although it's a fine town to explore, Christie devotees will have a different destination in mind.


Just up along the River Dart is Greenway House, Agatha's summer residence and a genuine hidden treasure. As befits its name, visitors are encouraged to arrive by “green ways” and leave the car at home.

Arriving via boat from Dartmouth or Torquay is by far the best manner of transport, as its narrow country lane and minimal car parking space (bookable in advance on the website only) reminds you that Greenway belongs in a bygone era.


You’ll need flat shoes and a sturdy pair of legs to negotiate the winding wooded paths through the 270-acre estate. Plants and flowers gathered from across the globe hit you with a riot of perfumes as you make your way up from or down to the quayside.


The house – bought for £6,000 in 1939 – was given to the National Trust by the author's daughter a decade ago, on the basis that it was to be retained just as the family had left it rather than turned into a Christie theme park.
“I don’t want to see that Monsieur Poirot anywhere near here!” demanded Rosalind Christie…and she got her wish.

Visitors are struck by the many touches of ordinary domestic life – hats on tables, golf clubs and fishing rods in the hall, even that awful shiny toilet paper in the lavatory!


Heaven for fans of the author arrives on the first floor, between Agatha’s bedroom and the sitting room, where a glass case shows off the first editions of all of her novels.


You might find her literary style an acquired taste but the English Riviera itself is too beautiful a spot to remain a mystery to the curious traveller.
And not a villainous butler in sight...

FACT FILE
Getting there: Return tickets from London Paddington to Torquay on First Great Western cost from £47 (thetrainline.com).


Where to stay: Peter stayed in a luxury self-catering three-bedroom lodge at Beverley Park (beverley-holidays.co.uk) boasting a fully equipped kitched, flat screen TV, personal deck and superb views over Tor Bay.

Facilities in the park include indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, spa, children's sports activities, restaurant, take-away and bar. Prices start from £282 for a three-night break and £424 for a week.


Where to go: Agatha Christie Festival: September 12-19, featuring treasure hunts, fireworks, dances, theatre productions and murder mystery dinners (englishriviera.co.uk/agathachristie)


Greenway House: Gift Aid Admission (Standard Admission prices in brackets) Visitors arriving by car: Adult £9 (£8), child £4.50 (£4), family £22 (£20), family (1 adult) £13.50 (£12.20).

Visitors arriving by 'green ways' (Standard Admission): Adult £7.40, child £3.70, family £18.40, family (1 adult) £11


Greenway ferry: Dartmouth to Greenway return, adult £8, under-16 £6. Return ferry from Torquay, including admission to house, adult £25, under-16 £15, family £60 (greenwayferry.co.uk)


Agatha Christie Mile: free with the Agatha Christie Mile leaflet, available from Tourist Information Centres. With Blue Badge guide accompaniment, prices vary. Contact Joan Nott on 01803 292982.

Torre Abbey: adults £5.75, under-16 £2.45, family £14.50 (torre-abbey.org.uk)
Steam Railway & Riverboat Company: Paignton to Dartmouth return train and ferry, adults £12, under-15s £8.50 (dartmouthrailriver.co.uk)


HiFlyer: 15-minute flight, adults £14, under-16s £8 (theHiFlyer.com)
The Cary Arms, Beach Road, Babbacombe (caryarms.co.uk).

Prices from £150 per room per night. Also have holiday cottages, from £750 per week. The inn serves excellent gastro-pub food with the emphasis on freshness and seasonality. They have recently created the most expensive jacket potato with Calvisius caviar!