With its pretty timber-framed houses and idyllic riverside location, ANNABELLE THORPE discovers the charms of the unspoilt Turkish resort of Akyaka

I'VE LOST count of the times I've driven past the village of Akyaka, en route from Dalaman airport towards the bustling resort of Marmaris, during my myriad visits to Turkey. Occasionally, I would glance in my car mirror as I negotiated the winding mountain road surrounded by pine forest, looking down at the houses clustered at the far end of the spectacular bay of Gökova. It was last autumn when I finally discovered the charms of this village much favoured by Turkish holidaymakers.

The road to the village twists and turns past olive groves and the odd new villa shaded by plane trees, before reaching a clutch of shops and small pensions. It was only when I reached my hotel, the Ottoman Residence, near the centre of the village, that I realised why Akyaka feels so different to other Turkish resorts.

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Akyaka's hotels and pensions are built along the Azmak river which is glimpsed occasionally through reed beds shifting gently in the breeze, before reaching the sea at a small arc of beach. Small wooden boat taxis chug up and down its length while renowned fish restaurants have built decked terraces on its banks. Lazing by a river feels very different to sunbathing on the beach. At the Ottoman Residence, a stretch of lawn leads to the riverbank, scattered with oversized bean bags and cushions.

Shaded by the plane trees, listening to the river gurgle past and the occasional duck quacking, I spent a tranquil afternoon dozing and reading, occasionally bickering with my friend Sara as to whose turn it was to fetch a cold beer from the bar.

Later, I retired to my comfortable bedroom with its wooden floors, antique telephone and (joy of joys) kettle and wandered on to the balcony overlooking a central courtyard complete with water feature.

THE VILLAGE is renowned throughout Turkey for its traditional Mugla architecture, timber-framed houses with intricate bougainvillea-draped balconies jutting out above the streets. Like the whole Mugla region, it's protected by conservation laws, so anything new, like our five-year-old bolthole, the Ottoman Residence, has to blend in.

On our first evening we strolled down to the beach and past the strip of small bars and restaurants where couples sat sharing meze and drinking cold Cankaya (Turkish white wine).

Akyaka is not the place to come if you want to party but, as Sara and I sat over plates of shrimp casserole listening to traditional Turkish music lilting out of the stereo and watched the moon glisten on the water, we agreed it was a perfect place to relax.
Tempting as it was to spend our entire few days on the riverbank, we were also eager to explore. The beach itself can get busy during the summer months.

However, we took the advice of other British guests and headed out on foot along the promenade for less than a mile past eucalyptus trees to the small pebbly beach at Cinar, taking advantage of the ramshackle beach café for lunch and, gratefully, the afternoon tractor service back into town.

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The best way to see the stunning Turquoise Coast, famed for its pretty pebbly coves and ancient ruins, is by boat. Early one morning we hopped on a gulet, a traditional wooden sailing boat and headed across the sparkling Gulf of Gökova to Cleopatra Island or Sedir Adasi.

The island is famous for its sand, supposedly brought by Mark Antony from Egypt so that his lover, queen Cleopatra, could have a perfect beach to stroll on.

It is also home to some interesting Roman ruins at Cedreae. We had the atmospheric monuments almost to ourselves, clambering happily up the crumbling seats of the shady amphitheatre and trying to identify which stone pillars formed the Temple of Apollo.
Our last full day in Akyaka coincided with market day in Mugla, the largest town in the province that lies a white-knuckle, but scenic, half-hour drive over the mountain.

IT FELT like another world, untouched by tourism, a city going about its everyday business. We barely heard another English voice as I bartered over two wrought iron lanterns in the bazaar.

As the morning stretched on the market grew more crowded and we wandered off in search of the old quarter, where whitewashed houses with their wooden balconies stood silently between olive and plane trees.

We finished our visit to Mugla with our most authentic meal of the week, a chicken doner at one of the roadside stalls on the way out of town. For about 40p each, we tucked into tender spicy chicken and crispy salad wrapped in homemade flat breads.

It was a fitting end to our exploration of this unspoilt region, far from the madding crowds.

GETTING THERE:
Anatolian Sky (08448 757681/www.anatoliansky.co.uk) offers seven nights at the Ottoman Residence from £461pp (two sharing), B&B.

Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Dalaman with Monarch Airlines . Departs October 11.

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office: 020 7839 7778/www.gototurkey.co.uk