NOT many people have heard of Linares, Spain says RICHARD HIGGS

NOT many people have heard of Linares.

Put the name of the Spanish city into Google and, apart from some blurb about an annual chess tournament, very little comes up.

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Only one in five guidebooks I flicked through had any information on the place.

But the mystery just made my short break there more exciting. Linares is no tourist hotspot with ex-pats downing sangria and cervezas in British-themed bars.

In fact, while the old mining town does have several four-star hotels, the concept of tourism is completely lost on the locals.

This is true Spain. No one speaks a word of English, it’s steeped in history and culture and you can eat tapas for next to nothing on every street corner.

With a population of 58,400, Linares lies in the north of the Andalucian province of Jaén.

I went for the fly-drive option, which gives you a taste of mainland Spain on the two- and-a-half hour drive from Malaga airport.

The Sierra Nevada national park landscape is breathtaking.

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The rolling hills are scattered with towers and castles of Hispanic heritage. It’s also where two of the highest mountains of the Iberian Peninsula can be found – the Mulhácen at 3,482m and the Veleta at 3,392m.

I stopped at Granada to break up the journey. Make time for tapas at Café Elvira on Calle Elvira, right in the heart of the city. And don’t forget to throw your serviette on the floor after you’ve finished eating – a sign of appreciation.

Pretty
The Andalucian landscape is dominated by olive trees, which thrive in the warm sun.

There is even an olive oil museum near the town of Baeza, a short drive from Linares.

Many of the 97 historic towns and picturesque parks that make up the province of Jaénare worth a visit.

But if you only have time for one, make it the World Heritage town of Baeza with its Renaissance palaces, cathedral and magnificent public squares.

But I had set out to explore Linares itself – or Linares de la Sierra, to call it by its full name.

Arriving there felt like stepping back in time. One of the first things you see is an extinct lead mining shaft. The last mine closed in 1991 but it’s clear Linares still prides itself on its industrial prowess.

Up in the hills you can see hundreds of wind farms and on the outskirts of the city there is factory after factory – the motor industry being its main source of income.

Venture further into the centre and you will find a pretty, picturesque old town.  

First port of call has to be the statues of the country’s most famous matador, Manuel Rodríguez  “Manolete” Sánchez and of Islero, the bull that killed him. Linares gained notoriety after the 30-year-old was killed in its bullring in August 1947. In the 63 years since no bullfighter has come close to taking his place.

The bullring itself is magnificently kept. It’s obvious the place is very much the heart and soul of the city. There were no fights on the weekend I was in the city, so it’s worth checking in advance. If, however, you are squeamish and would prefer to soak up the atmosphere at home you could always hire The Passion Within, which is out now on DVD and Blu-ray.

The film, starring Adrien Brody and Penélope Cruz, tells how Manolete rose to fame to become Spain’s most notorious bullfighter, while embroiled in a passionate relationship with social beauty Lupe Sino.

Buzzing
While the ending will be no surprise, it’s a real tearjerker.

The quaint cobbled streets in the centre of Linares are in complete contrast to the city’s industrial outskirts.

They are filled with buzzing bars, restaurants and cafés. Locals seem to while away the day watching bullfights on old TV sets, grazing on tapas, chain-smoking and drinking.

It’s no wonder the shops close at midday for siesta and never seem to re-open.

I ate at Mesón Campero in the old town, which serves authentic Spanish fare at a reasonable price.

Another great place to eat is the Aníbal Hotel, where I stayed.

While the rooms are a tad basic the marble-floored lobby and rooftop restaurant more than make up for it.

The place is a firm favourite with locals, probably for the service and the chance to dine under the stars.

The chef cooks on the terrace, so it is filled with gorgeous aromas. And three courses cost less than £20.

Linares is a real hidden gem and a very different taste of Spain from the Costa del Sol.

While it should never become a tourist trap, it definitely deserves a mention in the guidebooks.

FactFile
■EASYJET flies from various UK airports into Malaga. Prices start at £225 including taxes. See easyjet.co.uk
■ Richard stayed at the Aníbal Hotel where a double room costs from around £90 per night. See tvtrip.co.uk/linares-hotels/hotelrl-anibal
■Four-day car rental with Goldcar Rental costs £63. Book at goldcar.co.uk
For details of the Olive Oil Museum at Baeza see museodelaculturadelolivo.com
Get tickets for Linares Bullring at worldticketshop.com/bullfighting
■See andalucia.org or andalucia.com for more information on the area.