This tiny Ionian island is the slower, calmer alter-ego of nearby Corfu which makes it ideal for relaxing, as NAT BARNES discovers

LEGEND has it that Cleopatra sailed past the tiny Greek island of Paxos without stopping while on her way to Rome. Her failure to step ashore was her loss, as more recent celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone, Tom Hanks and former American President George W Bush have discovered.

Today, huge yachts dominate the bay outside Gaios, the island's pretty main town, and a flotilla of small tenders ferry the wealthy owners to the harbourside with its beautiful Venetian-style buildings.

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Naval one-upmanship, in both the bay and the port moorings, is about as stressful as things get on this tiny dot in the Ionian Sea. Corfu may be only an hour away to the north by hydrofoil but Paxos feels like another world; slower, calmer and more relaxing, as my wife Zoe and I discovered.

Here's our lowdown for a perfect chilled-out break: Sunset cocktails There's only one place to be on Paxos as the sun goes down and that's the Erimitis Bar & Restaurant overlooking the towering Erimitis Cliffs on the west coast. Sit back on the terrace with a Mojito cocktail and watch the white cliffs change colour as the sun sets.

At €49 for two (wine extra), meals here aren't cheap but the restaurant boasts some of the tastiest food on the island and some of the best views. Even on a warm night, be sure to pack a jumper because the exposed location means it can get windy.

While here, don't miss the island's famous "Submarine Rock" at the foot of the cliffs.

During the Second World War Allied craft would hide in the many caves along the coast taking advantage of unusual rock formations that left a submarine-like silhouette in the water. Thankfully, it helped divert German bombers away from the real thing.

Where to eat Paxos isn't short of restaurants, particularly in Gaios, but investigate beyond some of the more obvious tourist places and you'll be rewarded. Head to Genesis Taverna & Cafe Bar on the outskirts of Gaios port opposite the green statue of George Anemoyiannis, a young sailor from Paxos who bravely volunteered for a suicide mission during the Greek War of Independence in 1821.

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The restaurant is renowned for some of the best fish dishes on the island and we dined on fresh swordfish and some tongue-tingling tzatziki ( €40 for two).

Midway through our meal the waiters and waitresses broke into spontaneous dancing, encouraging diners to join them in conga lines through the kitchen and bar area. Evenings out in Gaios don't get much livelier than this.

The family-run taverna O Gios in the village of Loggos, with tables pinned between the houses and the road, was a typical Paxos find, serving tasty and well-priced food in a friendly, semi-chaotic atmosphere.

We had the delicious seafood spaghetti and baked feta ( €30 for two). It's a better option than the more popular Vassilis just across the bay.

When visiting the north of the island, check out the Fanis café in the village of Lakka.

The great location, jutting out into the bay, allows you to watch all the action on the bay while relaxing on comfy sofas.

Don't miss Over the years, thousands of tourists have walked the old donkey trails that weave through olive groves and lemon trees.

They can all be found on the Bleasdale Walking Map, available from Gaios tourist offices, which proved invaluable to us when exploring some of the smaller tracks off the main roads.

Alternatively rent a small motor boat for €60 a day and explore the island's east coast. You'll discover the more secluded beaches not accessible from the (limited) roads, such as Levrechio, and also be able to take advantage of the staggeringly clear waters by doing some snorkelling.

Antipaxos No visit to Paxos would be complete without a day trip to its smaller sister island to the south.

Sea taxis from Gaios take you directly throughout the day but if you aren't in a hurry, take the more leisurely morning ferry. This sails north along the east coast of Paxos before heading south along the west coast.

Taking in seaviews of Loggos and Lakka, the boat also visits remote caves where you can swim before being dropped off at Voutoumi beach on Antipaxos.

Once ashore, take the 20-minute walk along the coast to the neighbouring beach at Vrika. It may be smaller than Voutoumi but its white sand and azure-blue water doubled for the Caribbean on the classic Bounty television advert.

Need I say more?

Perhaps it's as well Cleopatra didn't stop off.

One look at Vrika beach and she might never have made it to Rome at all.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
CV Travel (0207 401 1026/www.cvtravel.co.uk) offers seven nights at Villa Manti from £505 per person (six sharing), room only.

Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Corfu, transfers, maid service and a welcome food hamper.

Greek National Tourist Office: 0207 495 9300/www.visitgreece.gr