JIM FOULERTON finds novel ways to explore the magical Estonian capital, paddling a kayak across the harbour and hitting the roads in a classic car

IT TAKES a certain something to stand out in the fiercely competitive city-break market and for a while Tallinn hitched up its skirt, talked cheap and attracted the stag party crowd.

Bad idea. Thankfully, that demographic has largely moved on and Estonia's charming capital has re-emerged as a fine place to spend a long weekend.

Click here now for amazing offers to Tallinn!

There is much to be said for this energetic Baltic port on the Gulf of Finland, which may explain why it has been chosen as the European Capital of Culture for 2011. The celebrated old town, which boasts northern Europe's best-preserved medieval quarter, is where you will doubtless wish to spend most of y our time. This maze of cobbled streets, church towers and shaded walkways winding its way up the Toompea Hill is truly captivating.

My partner Kazumi and I treated ourselves and stayed in the splendid 13th-century Schlössle Hotel, a short walk from the Town Hall square. Sturdy wooden beams, thick stone walls and antique furnishings enhance the hotel's baronial atmosphere and yet, typically in Tallinn, cutting-edge technology and stylish design also v ied for our attention. The intimate bedrooms are a haven of luxury and good taste, with free Wi-Fi, plasma TV and DVD player.

We enjoyed a light breakfast in the shade of the hotel's secluded terrace before setting off on a kayaking tour of the harbour.

Joining a guided party, we pottered among the ships and, memorably at one dock, military submarines.

The tour became a touch more strenuous as we made our way across the choppy bay, which provided a venue for many of the w ater-based events at the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

Want incredible deals to Tallinn? Click here now...

Our reward was a hearty lunch at the Golden Piglet Inn, a country-style Estonian restaurant w here staff in traditional dress breeze cheerily between the heavy oak tables serving the likes of blood sausage, sauerkraut and, with overtones of Asterix, wild boar. For us, this was followed by rhubarb cake and gingerbread ice cream.

Carrying some extra weight, we began our tour of the Old Town's gothic spires, medieval markets, art galleries, trendy bars and shops. The hub is the town square, surrounded by fancy merchant houses and dominated by the 15th-century Town Hall.

We walked past imposing St Olav's Church. Until 1625, this structure was the tallest building in the world (the current holder of the title, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, is five times the height).

At the top of the steps of Luhike Jalg ("short leg street") is the reputedly haunted Gate Tower.

Regretting that extra helping of wild boar, we struggled to the top.

No ghosts to report, just stunning views of the onion-shaped domes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and city skyline beyond.
In the heat of late afternoon, we found a table in the shade and had a refreshing dark Estonian beer.

A Tallinn must-see is St Catherine's Passage with its craft shops and kitsch dolls' houses. Inside the Dominican Monastery, Tallinn's oldest intact building, a theatre group was rehearsing on a creaking, makeshift stage as we stopped by.

Tallinn has such a feel for the arts, you wonder whether it needs the status afforded it by the European Council's award. The acclaimed Estonian classical composer, Arvo Pärt, has an apartment in the Old Town but there is artistic appeal beyond the medieval walls, not least in the revamped, avant-garde Rotermann Quarter, the focal point of many festivals and concerts.

That evening we ate fillet of lamb served with stuffed zucchini in the award-winning Stenhus Restaurant, set deep in the Schlössle's vaulted cellars. We finished the night with a Cognac in the cigar lounge and old library where, in winter, an open fire roars.

The clientele appeared to be made up largely of smartly dressed locals on first-name terms with the hotel's affable manager. Clearly, this was a restaurant to which people returned time and again.

A TIP-OFF from said manager took us the following day to Autoklassik, a quirky car hire company specialising in classic models.

Sliding behind the wheel of a British racing-green MGB GT, we set out to explore the city at a less sedate pace. We felt we really cut it as we swept past Peter the Great's Baroque palace. The roads were quiet and it was probably the safest I have felt driving abroad.

Later we edged towards Pirita, a two-mile stretch of sandy beach with a yachting harbour. The weather and setting was more Barcelona than Baltic, yet Harry, the owner of the company, told us that in winter the sea water freezes in sheets across the coast road.

We finished off our trip with a riotous dinner in the Nevskij restaurant in the old town's Hotel St Petersbourg. With a guitarist strumming away, we devoured sensational boeuf bourguignon and enjoyed Russian vodka poured expertly from a height of several feet into ice-cold crystal glasses.

We found that Tallinn parties long into the night. Much longer than we do these days, though we gave it our best shot. Not enough damage was done, thank heavens, to erase the memories of an excellent weekend.

GETTING THERE:
Schlössle Hotel (dialling from the UK: 00 372 699 7700/www.schlosslehotels.com) offers doubles from ¤198 per night (two sharing), B&B.

Estonian Air (0844 482 2327/www.estonian-air.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Tallinn from £142.

Estonian Tourist Board: www.visitestonia.com/en