MAX WOOLDRIDGE sees magical West Cork in a new light on an unforgettable kayaking adventure or Ireland

IT'S AN early November evening and drizzly rain is tickling my face and eyes. The cloud cover means it is totally black too, but boy is it quiet. The only sound is splashing as our paddles stroke the water.

We have no notion of the busy lives we have left behind for a few days.

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Myself and three friends are kayaking on the waters of Lough Hyne, near Skibbereen, in County Cork. The water is calm because we're inland from the North Atlantic swells that buffet this dramatic coastline.

Every paddle stroke is rewarded with a fabulous glistening glow in the water around me. The underwater firework display is courtesy of the Hyne's large plankton population which gives off a phosphorescent light when disturbed.

As surreal experiences go, this night kayaking adventure takes some beating.

There is some wonderful wildlife. What look like the outlines of navigational buoys turn out to be inquisitive, friendly otters. They swim up close, with just their heads out of the water, to see what's making all the noise. Then we spot some owls in the trees when our navigational lights reflect off their feathers.

"Every night is different here so you never quite know what you'll see, " says Jim Kennedy, who leads our group. His company, Atlantic Sea Kayaking, shows kayakers of all abilities some of the best-kept secrets in south-west Ireland.

Initially our 10ft-long boats are a bit of a squeeze to get into but once inside they are surprisingly comfortable. Spray decks, a skirt-like apparel worn around our waists and clipped to the kayak, keep splashes from soaking our laps.

The weather in West Cork changes quickly and tonight is no exception. After an hour on the water the clouds part to reveal a wondrous star-studded sky.

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Now the sparkling lights above match the twinkling water around my kayak.

I've kayaked before around Scottish island inlets and the sea off Vancouver, but never in waters as calm or as dark as this. Gliding effortlessly across the moonlit lake, we are like ducklings following Jim's lead kayak, which carries refreshments such as a hot flask and energy bars.

Lough Hyne is a biological treasure trove with a unique geology. A protected bio-reserve, it has a narrow channel connecting it to the sea. The result is a temperature several degrees warmer than the surrounding ocean, warm enough to sustain plankton and a whole variety of marine life.

We retire to our base, the relaxed West Cork Hotel on the riverside in Skibbereen, one of West Cork's most picturesque towns where the many atmospheric pubs are outnumbered only by butcher's shops.

The following morning we visit the Great Famine Commemoration Exhibition at the Skibbereen Heritage Centre, located in a restored old gasworks building. It makes for a sobering few hours as Skibbereen, we learn, was one of the areas worst hit by the 19th-century potato famine.

Jim has recently launched a new kayak tour designed to give visitors a new perspective on Cork city itself.

The next day we meet him on the banks of Cork's River Lee. We paddle upstream and gain a view of the city once enjoyed by trade ships bringing all their worldly goods. From a kayak, it soon becomes clear that Cork is built around the water.

In fact, it's a wonder that Irish tourism chiefs haven't renamed the city the "Venice of Ireland".

IHIS novel way to see Cork offers a snapshot of the city's rich merchant history. Many properties in the centre have boathouses at their base which are no longer used.

Until the last century the city had an extensive canal network that connected the 18 original islands that Cork rests upon. Most are now filled in, leaving only two remaining channels of the River Lee in the city centre.

Later, after a shower at our Cork hotel, the large, functional Clarion, we meet up with Jim again. We are ready to see more of the city but this time on foot.

Another upside to kayaking is it creates a huge appetite. My friends are keen to try the friendly vegetarian restaurant Cafe Paradiso on Lancaster Quay. With scrumptious dishes like grilled haloumi with gingered gooseberry chutney and an almond pastry galette of feta and spinach, even I, a dedicated carnivore, soon find myself converted.

After dinner we swap one dark liquid for another. We bid farewell to the River Lee and hello to several pints of the local Murphy's stout.

GETTING THERE:
Cities Direct (01242 536900/www.citiesdirect.co.uk) offers two nights at the Clarion Hotel from £299pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Cork with Aer Lingus (0871 718 5000/www.aerlingus.com). For departures at the end of September/beginning of October.

Atlantic Sea Kayaking (dialling from the UK: 00 353 282 1058/www.atlanticseakayaking.com) offers a selection of kayaking trips from €45pp.

West Cork Hotel (282 1277/www.westcorkhotel.com) offers doubles from €129 per night (two sharing), half board.

Tourism Ireland: 0800 039 7000/ www.discoverireland.com