Fifties England is a ferry ride away says STEVE HUGHES

AS the ferry pulled towards the port, we were silenced by the clear water gently lapping the sand and the sherbet-coloured buildings lining the coast.

In the distance a magnificent castle seemed to float on the sea.

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"No-one ever really talks about the Channel Islands, " said my girlfriend as we finally arrived in St Peter Port in Guernsey.

It's true - you don't hear many raving about them as a holiday destination.

Maybe that's because they have never been.

Just 75 miles by ferry from Weymouth, Dorset, the islands are a corner of the UK that's unaffected by the hustle and bustle of modern life.
And you can hop between them easily on regular boat services.

Guernsey is the second largest Channel Island and the largest in a group of islands known as the Bailiwick of Guernsey.

Just 25 square miles in size, it is dotted with sandy beaches along its west and south coasts and dominated by the capital, St Peter Port.

As a crown dependency rather than a part of the UK proper, it is essentially British but with its own local feel.

Being 30 miles from France, many of Guernsey's road names, products and people's names have a French feel.

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Don't tell them that though - the Guerns consider themselves very British indeed. One woman we met, who'd moved to Guernsey from the mainland, described the island as "like England in the 1950s".

On Sundays all the shops are closed and the locals gravitate to the pubs for a roast dinner.

People leave their doors unlocked and there is barely any crime.

They even have their own money, which still includes pound notes.

St Peter Port is where most of the action is in terms of bars, restaurants and shops. English-style are next to French-style bistros and some mix the cultures together.

One local favourite is the Dix-Neuf bistro where you can eat either country's cuisine.

The most traditional place to take tea is in the Old Government House - a hotel converted from the former official residence of the rulers of Guernsey.

For a more formal affair the La Fregate seafood restaurant offers locally caught fish, which you can eat overlooking the St Peter Port harbour.

While St Peter Port is the food, drink and shopping hub, it's worth taking a car - or hiring one there - to get around.

Despite the 35mph speed limit and the complex oneway system, it doesn't take long to get anywhere because Guernsey is so compact and there seems to be no traffic at all.

Taking a trip to the (even) quieter south coast is well worth it. You'll often find beaches and coves that become yours for the day because there is no-one else around.

On the west coast is Cobo Bay, popular with younger Guerns for its surfing.

However if Guernsey is somehow not quiet and peaceful enough then hop on a boat to Herm island.

There are no cars, no tele visions and barely any people. City dwellers will be confused - and then uplifted - by the deafening sound of silence.

A 20-minute boat service runs to and from Herm several times a day from St Peter Port and there is also limited accommodation for those wishing to stay.

You can also get the boat to Sark, which is slightly larger and further away than Herm.

Car-free and with the feel of the French countryside, Sark is a unique place.

All the Channel Islands share a rich history.

Being so close to France, they were occupied by the Nazis for most of the Second World War.

Anyone interested in the war years will be in their element in Guernsey with the German Occupation Museum, Underground Museum and the German Underground Hospital, built by slaves for wounded Nazis.

Castle Cornet itself - the first real landmark you see as you arrive at Guernsey from Weymouth - is probably the most impressive attraction of all.

Built on an island just off St Peter Port harbour, it has a long history going back to the 13th Century.

While the Channel Islands used to be popular with Brits, the cheap European package holiday has dented this trade.

But the fact that they lie undiscovered by so many is part of their charm.

A return trip there is definitely top of my list.

FACT FILE
JOURNEYS for two people and car on Condor Ferries, from Weymouth to Guernsey, cost from £130. See condorferries.co.uk.
Steve stayed at La Collinette Hotel on Guernsey, costing from £65 per person per night. See lacollinette.com.
Afternoon tea at the Old Government House costs £9.75 per person. See theoghhotel.com.
A typical main course at Dix-Neuf costs £10. See dixneuf.gg. A typical main course La Fregate Hotel costs £12-18. See lafregatehotel.com.