St Anton in Austria may be known for its après-ski but, as HANNAH HOWELLS discovers, it offers so much more

AS OUR bus pulled into St Anton's main square the heavy snow that had greeted us coming up the valley started to ease.

Early morning sunshine broke through the clouds and reflected off the inviting slopes rising high above the town, tucked away in the Austrian Alps.

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Our new-found friend, 79-year-old "Big" Ben Bateman, flashed a smile and said: "Just look at that. Perfection."

Travelling with my ski-mad family and three girlfriends, we had met Ben on the bus by chance when we discovered we were staying at the same hotel, the Alte Post.

He was a tall man who, despite having trouble walking, was in his element on the slopes. Ben had skied all over the world but St Anton was, without doubt, his favourite resort, averaging three visits a year.

St Anton is certainly a resort for all ages, with great food, famous après-ski and truly wonderful walks, not to mention nearly 160 miles of outstanding skiing for all abilities.

The Alte Post proved a gem. We had all stayed at some splendid ski accommodation but this four-star, 60-room hotel, just 100 yards from the main lift, The Galzigbahn, is one of the finest.

The cosy bar with roaring fire was friendly and inviting and most nights there was live music.

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There was also a spa, swimming pool, Jacuzzis and steam rooms, perfect for easing aching muscles.

The food was magnificent. "I'm sure staying here has helped me get to 79, " said Ben as he tucked into bacon and leek quiche, roasted veal and a pudding which was described as "raison omelette with braised plums".

Showing no sign of fatigue, he insisted on brandy after his fine wine, while we made arrangements to explore the ski slopes the following day.

We started the week with some glorious red and blue runs (one covers a staggering 6.5 miles) and progressed to some challenging blacks, occasionally heading off-piste into virgin snow.

Fuelling us and the others on the slopes were some excellent mountain restaurants.

The best, we decided, was Hospiz Alm in the nearby village of St Christoph, famed for its spare ribs and celebrity following:
Prince Charles loves the place, while several other A-list patrons are pictured on the walls.

The Arlberg Taja was another favourite, its sun deck a great place to unwind with a beer.

One lunchtime, a brass band turned up on skis, much to the amusement of the diners.

One day we took a bus ride to explore the neighbouring resort of Lech, known as a "fur-coated haven" on account of the big spenders who frequent it.

The skiing is easier than in St Anton but with breathtaking scenery and some lovely, top-end hotels perched on its slopes.

Back in St Anton, we were eager to sample an après-ski scene that is rated one of the best in Europe.

The bars are plentiful and the clientele unashamedly fun-loving.

Ben was old enough to be the great-grandfather of many of the teenagers partying at Krazy Kanguruh, one of the hottest spots in town, but he was soon joining in the dancing in his ski boots.

If the skiing and après-ski get too much, there is plenty to enjoy at the sports centre, which has an ice-skating and curling rink, indoor and outdoor pools, gym, bowling alley and courts for tennis and squash.

Also, don't miss the magnificent 2.5-mile toboggan run through the forest at night, a spectacular end to any day on the slopes.
It was fantastic having a St Anton "insider" in the group.

Ben guided us, during a rare day off the slopes, on a 6.5-mile walk through the Verwall Valley at the top of the town for lunch at the Verwal restaurant. The trek through the woods to this magical eatery gave us a huge appetite, which was just as well as Kurt Fahrner and his staff serve up tremendous soups and local delicacies.

As the wine flowed, the snow came down and, for a while, there was a danger of us being snowed in. No one seemed to care, of course.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Crystal Ski (0871 231 2256/www.crystalski.co.uk) offers seven nights at Hotel Alte Post, St Anton, from £1,039pp (two sharing), half board. Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Innsbruck and transfers. Austrian National Tourist Office: 0207 440 3830/ www.austria.info