Pampered to the point of total relaxation, HOLLY THOMAS enjoys a two-centre break in the w inter sun resorts of Paphos and Limassol

DRIVING up the windy roads and hairpin bends in Cyprus really felt like a world away from the bustle of city life at home. The air here switches between sweet citrus aromas from the groves and the less desirable smell of sulphur from the natural springs for which the area is famous.

I've come to Cyprus with my husband for some winter sun and relaxation and that's just what we get. The sun is shining and the temperature is in the mid-20Cs. We have booked into the Ayii Anargyri Spa Resort and it is clear it's a very peaceful place. There's an orange grove at the entrance and we are greeted by welcoming staff.

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Bedrooms here are dotted around the pool, all with a balcony or garden area.

They are spacious and neutral in design w ith crisp white cotton linen and earthy tones to the furniture.

The emphasis is on making you feel as relaxed as possible.

One of the main reasons we chose this hotel was to be pampered in the spa, its main attraction. Bathing in its sulphur pools is said to ease rheumatic and arthritic pains and improve skin disorders, joint mobility and circulation.

The view from the indoor pools across to the mountains is sensational.

The spa dates back to 1649 and was opened by two brothers who offered treatments, often free of charge, which is where the name Anargyri (without silver) came from.

The spa treatments are well priced and for €50 I also have a 45-minute Indian head massage which sends me straight to a dreamy state of relaxation.

To continue the treat theme, I am delighted with the elaborate menu at the Amaroula restaurant, offering pan-seared black cod or fried duck and foie gras meatballs, which were superb.

To earn such indulgence you can cycle or walk to explore this beautiful part of the island. Before you set off, note that it's very hilly and you need a car to reach the unspoilt countryside.

We discover a lovely beach, just 20 minutes from our hotel, at Polis called Chrysochou Bay, where we hire sunloungers and swim in the fresh w ater even though it is a little cold.

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On another day we head to the nearby town of Latchi, which has a string of tavernas. We settle at a table outside at the Seafare restaurant, looking on to the harbour where some impressive boats are moored, and enjoy grilled red mullet and a tasty Greek salad.

Polis is a popular destination for many residents of Cyprus and although it's classed as a town it has a village feel to it. In the centre there are lots of winding streets with pretty souvenir shops and plenty of inviting restaurants.

I join friendly locals one evening for dinner at Moustakallis Tavern, which serves traditional dishes such as pork souvlaki, marinated to perfection.

Down on the south coast of Cyprus is Limassol, the island's second largest city, which by contrast is very flat and v ery busy. It has many hotels, bars and clubs as well as a pretty old town.

This is where we base ourselves for the second half of our 10-day trip and it provides a totally different experience to the previous few days. We base ourselves at the five-star Amathus Hotel, a place of indulgence for holidaymakers and locals alike.

Jet-skis race past designer swimwear-clad guests basking in the sun. I see Chanel handbags casually slung over the backs of seats from my sunlounger, where I'm being handed an ice-cold flannel to cool off with. It's a world away from my tranquil first few days on the island.

THE Amathus has five restaurants serving international cuisine, including Asian and Italian food, as well as a fish restaurant overlooking the water. Breakfast is a classy affair with a tempting buffet of anything you can imagine from made-to-order omelettes to sticky pastries. One morning I help myself to a glass of bubbly. Well, why not?

Our room is in the hotel's newly refurbished block and contains the biggest bed I've ever slept in. The furniture is super-modern and includes a funky, reclining orange chair.

Outside the hotel is a rather different experience. Bars and restaurants line a busy dual carriageway and beyond for as far as the eye can see. I spot two Pizza Huts and a McDonald's in just a short stretch of the road.

However, there's a pretty area in the old town and the "old port" which is a much nicer area to explore, with its mixture of expensive fashion boutiques and dusty souvenir shops selling lace and leather goods.

There are some gorgeous fish restaurants here too. It's a great place for trying local specialities such as halloumi, a goat's milk cheese that's delicious grilled.

Carob syrup is for sale everywhere.

Never heard of it? Neither had I until my visit. Carob is a fruit which comes in pods and is used like sugar in cakes and sweet treats. It was an important export for the island and there is even a museum in the old town devoted to showing how it is harvested.

Back at the hotel I wander into the spa, which is 2,000 square metres of tranquility. The hotel boasts a Thai masseuse among its specialists and the book of treatments is as thick as a novel. The gym and fitness centre is all state-of-the-art with daily exercise classes if you feel you've overindulged.

Power walking seems to be popular here. From my balcony where I enjoy the morning sun, I marvel at the flood of people striding along the promenade.

I take a run on the treadmill followed by a hot stone massage. The smooth heated pebbles covered in oil kneading my body is heaven.
It is the perfect end to my week of pampering and relaxation in the off-season Mediterranean sunshine.

GETTING THERE:
Planet Holidays (0871 871 2234/ planet-holidays.co.uk) offers seven nights including three at Ayii Anargyri Natural Healing Spa Resort, Paphos, and four at the Amathus Beach Hotel, Limassol from £456pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes a week's car hire.

Monarch Airlines (0871 225 3555/ monarch.co.uk) offers flights from UK airports to Larnaca from £116.50.

Cyprus Tourism Organisation: 0207 569 8800/visitcyprus.com