PAUL JEEVES heads to Canada's laid-back east coast where he takes in the dramatic seascapes and spectacular marine wildlife, and even catches his own supper

AS THE huge wave crashed over the boat and engulfed us in a bath of salty seawater, I wondered if our tenth wedding anniversary celebration should perhaps have been taken in one of the more traditional romantic hotspots of, say, Paris or Rome. Despite being dressed from head-to-toe in a vibrant orange sou'wester my wife had a mile-wide smile on her face, but could a wave-soaked, wind-swept adventure aboard a ship really compete with a hand-in-hand stroll along the Seine and candlelit dinner on the Left Bank?

I must admit to having entertained a few doubts when it suddenly happened. We hit a calm patch of sea between two small islands and the captain announced: "They're around here, I can feel it." Seconds later an enormous finback whale rose majestically from the water less than a hundred yards from our vessel.

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I didn't know whether to grab my camera or binoculars but in the panic of scrambling for both, I almost missed the spectacle of a second whale emerging from the water right at the bow of the boat.

Seeing the sheer size and power of the creature at such close quarters was breathtaking. It was less than 10 yards from my arm. "That's as close as I've ever seen a whale in 15 years, " said Captain Rob. "You picked a good day for it."

We were sailing off the shore of St Andrews By-the-Sea, Canada's first coastal resort, hunting for the rich array of sealife that lives in the stunning Bay of Fundy. After days of wall-to-wall sunshine we had awoken to rain and fog and a fear that our trip could be cancelled.

While lesser mortals keep their boats safely moored, however, Tall Ship Whale Adventures with their vessel the Jolly Breeze claim to have never missed a day's sailing during Atlantic Canada's holiday season, which stretches from the end of May until October.

Our endeavour was richly rewarded as we saw several more finbacks, a humpback and an array of porpoises, dolphins and seals.

The whale-watching was an obvious highlight of a seven-day road trip that saw us explore two of this sprawling nation's maritime provinces.

After a six-hour transatlantic flight to Halifax, Nova Scotia, a car ferry took us to Prince Edward Island, the birthplace of the Canadian Confederation in 1864 and also the setting for the classic Anne Of Green Gables tales.

We stayed in the island's culturally rich capital of Charlottetown at the delightful Fitzroy Hall, a luxury downtown bed and breakfast. Lovingly restored in a Victorian style, it was packed with antiques and artefacts from a bygone era.

The historic setting put us in the mood for discovering how Canada came into being as a nation. We explored Province House, where the Fathers of Confederation first came together to discuss a united Canada. Charlottetown is also a haven for culinary excellence with an array of stunning seafood restaurants served by the rich fishing waters. After a day of culture we were ready for the great outdoors so headed into the PEI National Park at the north of the island.

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Its golden beaches, fantastic cycle routes and range of accommodation make it a great base for a family holiday.

Further round the coast we reached the Green Gables historic site where my wife was in raptures over being able to explore the real-life home where author Lucy Maud Montgomery based her timeless classic.

Having returned to Charlottetown in blazing, early-evening sunshine we decided it was the perfect opportunity to jump aboard Top Notch Charters' authentic lobster boat for an adventure around the harbour.

After a couple of average-size catches, I was tasked with hauling the basket into our boat, only to find a monster catch which Captain Mark instantly announced as an "eight pounder".

I was happy to look at it in the trap but he insisted I parade my prize for the cameras, so with a little trepidation, and the fiercest of grips, I clung on to its claws for dear life as my wife retreated behind the safety of her camera.

"Look what I've got for my supper, " I bravely proclaimed to my fellow sailors. In reality, I feared the lobster was having the identical thought.

Departing PEI for New Brunswick is an adventure in itself, as you can take the eight-mile Confederation Bridge across the ocean. We then headed to the seaside resort of Shediac where an afternoon was spent lounging on the golden beach and swimming in the warmest Atlantic waters north of Virginia.

Just 90 minutes along the coast brings you to Hopewell Rocks, site of the world's largest tidal range.

By morning, we walked on the beach and explored the geological features of the "flowerpot rocks" carved by the powerful ocean flooding 100 billion tonnes of water through the inlet twice a day.

Then, after a relaxed lunch of lobster sandwich and chowder, we watched in amazement as the tide came in, transforming the beach into an ocean floor 46ft beneath the surface.

That evening we checked in to the opulent Tudor-style Fairmont Algonquin, sister hotel of Scotland's renowned St Andrews with a golf course (almost) to match. Dining at the nearby Rossmount Inn, our already spoilt taste buds were taken to new heights of ecstasy by a stunning menu produced by chef Chris Aerni using only local produce which changes daily to ensure the freshest ingredients.

Our trip finished in New Brunswick's capital, Fredericton, which hosts music festivals throughout the summer and has developed a network of relaxing bike trails around St John River.

This small town has what passes for hustle-and-bustle in this laidback part of the world with an array of bars, restaurants and nightlife, together with several boutique shops.

Our comfortable Air Canada flight returned us to Heathrow in little more than four hours thanks to a strong tail wind. "So, was that romantic enough?" I mused as we arrived home. "Darling, I've had a whale of a time, " came the reply.

GETTING THERE:
Air Canada (0871 220 1111/aircanada.com) offers return flights from Heathrow to Halifax from £644.

Budget (0844 544 3470/budget.co.uk) offers daily car hire from Halifax Airport from £35.

Fitzroy Hall (dialling from the UK: 001 866 627 9766/fitzroyhall.com) offers doubles from £79 per night (two sharing), B&B.

Maison Tait House (888 532 4233/maisontaithouse.com) offers doubles from £102 per night (two sharing), B&B.

The Fairmont Algonquin Hotel (866 540 4403/ fairmont.com/algonquin) offers doubles from £82 per night (two sharing), B&B.

Tall Ship Whale Adventures (866 529 8116/ jollybreeze.com) offers cruises from £33 adult, £24 child. Atlantic Canada: atlanticcanadaholiday.ca