If you’re one of those people who last climbed on a bike when you were 10, you don’t know what you’ve been missing says BOBBIE THURGOOD
No, seriously. Even the most hardened
getting-drunk-in-the-sun package holidaymaker (er, us) cannot fail to
be won over by the freedom of pedalling along quiet country lanes.
Especially on a more grown-up level if you’ve got post-festive flab to shift and the thought of the gym fills you with horror.
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And
cycling is now seriously cool with celebrities like Kelly Brook, Elle
Macpherson and David Walliams hopping on their bikes.
It’s
also a beautifully cheap holiday that can be enjoyed at home or
anywhere in the world. But it does help if the somewhere in the world
is flat-ish.
While
Lycra-clad nuts on pricey bikes go for the land speed record cycling up
an Alp or two, for most of us a gentle pedal between pubs is more
appealing – with the bonus that the booze doesn’t count when you’re in
the saddle all day.
Feared
So
operating on the principles that we wanted flat ground, good food, good
drinking and lovely scenery, we decided to take our first cycling
holiday in Brittany. And as we didn’t fancy lumping our bags around, we
plumped for a company that offered to transfer your main luggage
between hotels while you got on your bike every day with nothing
weightier than a water bottle and a map.
Saddle
Skedaddle is a small firm based in Newcastle run by an ordinary group
of blokes who all love cycling. We figured they were a good bet for
nervous novices like us.
The company offers either self-guided or escorted tours in the UK, Europe and far-flung places like Cuba and Chile.
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We
chose to go it alone on our week-long trip, although if you want to
make lasting mates the group trips sound a very good bet.
Skedaddle
supply hire bikes, helmets and locks in your country of choice as well
as detailed and easy-to-understand route maps.
You
can choose easy trips (fantastic if you’ve got kids) where you cycle
between 15 and 25 miles a day on level ground, through gentle (up to 40
miles a day with a few cheeky hills) to masochist (70 miles and
mountains).
Naturally,
we chose easy and set off on a high-speed catamaran Condor ferry from
Poole in Dorset to the beautiful port of St Malo on the north coast of
Brittany.
The
crossing takes around five hours and you can take your own bikes free.
Skedaddle works closely with cycling tour specialists in your
destination country and we were welcomed by the lovely Valerie at
France à Velo when we arrived.
All the maps, local information and 24-hour help numbers were waiting for us in our spotless hotel room.
Respect
We
were both a bit nervous on our first day of cycling – foreign country,
unfamiliar terrain and wine hangovers – but once we were out of the
busy suburbs of St Malo we knew we were in for a treat.
We soon found ourselves on a blissfully empty country road near the banks of the Rance river.
There
were days when we cycled for five hours and saw only two or three cars.
Skedaddle had picked the route with such expertise that every day was a
peaceful pleasure with French cows and soaring eagles watching your progress.
The
French appreciate cycling and cyclists too, which means even wobbly
beginners are treated with respect and a cheerful “bonjour” by the few
drivers you do see.
Before
we knew it our first day was over and we were on the quaint cobbled
streets of Dinan. We’d never heard of it either but the town is
absolutely beautiful, all crooked half-timbered homes and fairytale
French spires.
Our bags were ready and waiting for us in that night’s hotel, set in the centre of the ancient town.
And there is nothing more satisfying than sinking that first 1664 beer after a day in the fresh air on a bike. Sheer bliss.
The
days are organised so you’ve got lots of time to enjoy a leisurely
breakfast and to go sightseeing en route to your next destination.
We
stopped so many times to photograph amazing French chateaux and huge
skies over sweeping landscapes that we were out of the saddle more than
in it.
Our
second stop was Combourg where our hotel was in the grounds of
Cinderella’s castle. Well, that’s what it looked like. And the food in
the Hotel du Lac was superb even by French standards.
Once
again our luggage arrived before us and the bikes were securely looked
after in the hotel’s garage. By day three we were so relaxed we were
chatting about cycling from Land’s End to John O’Groats when we got
back home – cycling is incredibly addictive when it’s made this easy.
The
real highlight of our five days on bikes, though, was pedalling towards
the magnificent Mont St Michel, a walled medieval town and abbey set on
a rocky island off the coast.
It’s
one of Brittany’s most visited locations but few people have the
pleasure, as we did, of pedalling along a deserted river path and
watching one of the most spectacular sites in France emerge through the
early morning mist. It was so incredibly beautiful.
From
there it was on to the pretty resort of Cancale (famous for its
oysters) and back to St Malo for our last night of celebration.
There aren’t many holidays where you feel so relaxed, satisfied and just plain happy at the end of it.
Land’s
End to John O’Groats, here we come!
FACT BOX
SADDLE Skedaddle’s Brittany trip
runs from Saturday to Saturday from April through to October.
It costs £595 per person including seven nights’ bed and breakfast in two and three-star hotels. Minimum of two people.
Bike
hire costs an additional £90 per person. The services of a French
cycling specialist are available 24/7 and if you get too tired they’ll
even pick you up and transport you and your bike to the next stop.
Main luggage is transferred by secure taxi service every day for you.
The firm offers cycling holidays all year round from the iconic British cycle journeys to Cuba and Chile in the British winter.
See skedaddle.co.uk or call 0191 265 1110. Or if you’re in Newcastle pop in and have a cuppa with Paul and Andrew.
Saddle
Skedaddle can organise flights and ferry crossings but it’s easy to do
it yourself. We travelled with Condor Ferries fast crossing from Poole
to St Malo.
The
crossing takes about five hours and bikes are carried free. Our return
trip cost us £100 each. See condorferries.co.uk or call 0120 220 7216.