MY winter boots are unzipped, my scarf and jumper tossed to one side. I curl my legs underneath me and sink into the thick white padding of the sofa.

With a chilled glass of champagne in my hand I take in the breathtaking views over the manicured gardens and to the sea beyond and wonder what took me so long to find this little slice of paradise.

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I'm in the Algarve. Not in one of the over-developed parts that we are most familiar with but in a picturesque little pocket of countryside called Matos Morenos, a 10-minute drive from Lagos in south-west Portugal.

The balcony on which I am now firmly ensconced belongs to pretty Quinta Bonita, a new, family-run boutique hotel. Its design is typical of the Algarve: a sturdy, two-storey property with white-washed walls, large archways and intricate ironwork, all surrounded by an imposing white wall.

My arrival coincided with daily afternoon tea being set up on the balcony by the hotel's owner Chantelle Kortekaas and her partner, Fraser Lindsay.

Freshly baked lemon drizzle cake marries perfectly with the champagne. It's a popular ritual for guests and one which sees many return by 4pm each day.

Yet I swear Chantelle has never touched a crumb of Fraser's cakes judging by her perfect Elle Macpherson physique.

Chantelle couldn't be more welcoming or genuine. Her raison d'être is to ensure the wellbeing of her guests. In contrast, Fraser is more comfortable behind the scenes, taking care of all aspects of a culinary nature, occasionally popping out from the kitchen to enthuse about new dishes he's whipping into shape.

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My room, Zavial, is one of eight named after local beaches and is beautifully decorated in brilliant whites and traditional Portuguese blues.

Handmade lamp bases and bathroom accessories were sourced from a local pottery.

Matching soft furnishings including curtains, cushions and bedspreads were designed by Chantelle's mother, interior designer Denise.

Each room has its own style: some in contemporary tones of black and silver, others in rich burgundy and warming gold.

The wildly beautiful south-west coast beckons the following morning. After breakfasting on fresh fruit and pastries, my friend Paula and I head off towards the coast to Sagres and Cape St Vincent with its lighthouse and fort.

Unfortunately the weather is against us. We are nearly swept off the blustery headland as we fight against the wind, our cagoules whipping round us like untethered sails.
Defeated, we decide to head to the protected white sandy beach at the bottom of the towering cliffs where we try to perform cartwheels in the sand before lying back and watching the clouds float by.

It's 20-odd years since I last visited this region of Portugal. Along with three backpacking girlfriends we stumbled across the glorious fishing village of Salema where we spent three weeks soaking up the sun by day and jugs of Sangria by night.

While some memories may be a blur, I am curious to see whether the village has retained its quaint charms.

The colourful wooden fishing boats are still sitting on the glorious wide sandy beach.

They look almost forlorn, lying on their sides, unloved and patiently waiting for summer.

I am thankful Salema has escaped the mass development that has blighted much of the Algarve. The narrow, winding, cobblestone streets and immaculately kept houses are still there. I try to locate the little house where we once stayed but, as it was right on the beach, I'm convinced it has been washed away.

The beachside restaurants are still there, however. The intoxicating aroma of barbecued sardines lures us to a table overlooking the water.

The sunshine provides plenty of warmth to comfortably dine alfresco so we order two huge platefuls and a jug of Sangria and wonder what everyone back home in grey old Britain is doing for lunch.

Back at Quinta Bonita we enjoy an in-room manicure.

Bookable through Chantelle, a therapist comes to our rooms with foot baths, stereo for mood setting and glasses of chilled wine. If only all salons could be this good.
Our visit is timed with that of Denise and Chantelle's father, the enigmatic Hans. It is their first visit since Chantelle and Fraser took over the house last year, although it's been in the family since 1981.

After 10 years in Australia Chantelle and Fraser have fulfilled their dream of running a bed and breakfast and painstakingly set about turning Quinta Bonita from family holiday home to boutique hotel.

Their university friends helped paint the surrounding wall and large iron gates were chosen by Chantelle. Prior to cleaning the pond they spent an entire day catching frogs before it could be drained. A year on, their patience and hard work has paid off.

Hans gives me a tour of the grounds he practically planted himself. At every bend I discover another delight, from the elegant Italian garden with its 1,500 plants and central fountain, to the lily pond, towering palm trees and orchard of limes, lemons, oranges and avocados.

That night at dinner Hans explains just how he feels about Quinta Bonita. "It's just like a woman, " he says. "High maintenance, beautiful and expensive." A woman that's clearly worth the investment.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Europe As You Like It (0208 742 8299/ www.boutiquehotelalgarve.com) offers a four-night Winter Long Weekender to Quinta Bonita from £370pp (two sharing), B&B.

Price includes return easyJet flights from Gatwick to Faro, car hire, afternoon tea and welcome bottle of champagne on arrival (price applicable until March 31, 2011).

Portuguese National Tourist Office: 0207 201 6666/www.visitportugal.com