WHEN the North Eastern Railway decided to build its headquarters in York at the turn of the 20th century, it insisted on a construction more lavish and impressive than anything found in London.

The result was a majestic Edwardian pile which celebrated all the splendour of the Golden Age of Travel. Now, following a £25million renovation, the Grade II-listed building has become York's most exclusive hotel, the Cedar Court Grand.

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While it may have entered a new era, NER's visions of grandeur still remain.

After a painless two-hour train ride from London to York station, my mother Patricia and I took the short walk to the hotel which overlooks the city walls.

We were greeted by a doorman wearing a bowler hat and offered a glass of champagne in the impressive Belgian marble lobby. Our bags were quickly whisked up to our room.

There are 107 in total. Many of these once housed the rail company's typing pools, and still have office numbers engraved above oak doors. Inside, beautiful lead-panelled windows and mosaic-tiled floors remain intact.

Carved above the entrance of the building you can find the shields and badges that tell the story of the first railway companies which amalgamated to form the industrial behemoth that became NER.

Ex-employees still regularly visit the hotel to reminisce and the most popular room is the first-floor executive bathroom, previously off-limits to all but the chairman and his board, with its elaborate marble and brass fittings.

The building is an eclectic mix of architectural styles. Topped with a fine gilded weather vane, it boasts Dutch gables and balconies and Queen Anne-style embellishments. Stepping into the glass-and-chrome lift, it is clear the hotel has also been speeded into the 21st century but my favourite touch, a bespoke butler service, is reminiscent of its heyday.

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Exclusive to guests staying in the 12 suites and the panoramic penthouse is a team of valets catering to your every whim.

Should you want your bath run, champagne poured, suitcase unpacked, or even require a book at bedtime, the valets are on hand.

We settled down for a nightcap in the Whisky Lounge, a wood-panelled parlour with velvet furnishings and a great view of the city walls. The drinks cabinet is every single-malt lover's dream. After a couple of tasters, it was off to bed.

Butler or not, you'll feel pampered at the Cedar Court Grand. Stepping into our contemporary room, we were greeted by the scent of fresh lilies before we padded around the thick claret carpet, dived into our Egyptian cotton-laden twin beds, turned on the flatscreen TV and tucked into the homemade cookies.

The bathroom was enormous too, with under-floor heating, sunken tub and Molton Brown toiletries. After a peaceful night's sleep and eggs Benedict in our room, we set off to explore the £2million redevelopment of the Yorkshire Museum & Gardens, a five-minute walk away.

Home to some of Europe's most significant architectural and geological finds, including the most complete Anglo-Saxon helmet found on British soil, it offers an inspiring insight into this historic city.

My favourite piece was the medieval equivalent of modern-day bling, the 15th-century Middleham Jewel, which is adorned with a huge oblong sapphire.

After that cultural gem, it was time to pop back to Cedar Court for some pampering in the spa, situated in the basement which once housed the NER vaults.

We had a quick dip in the spotlit pool before hitting the steam room and sauna.

A quick change and it was off to dinner at the HQ fine dining restaurant.

First stop, though, was the wine cellar in the basement to meet the sommelier and choose which drop to accompany dinner.

The restaurant is an elegant affair with white linen and silver cutlery, flanked by panelled windows with views of York Minster's towers.

The menu focuses on wholesome British dishes using local produce but is anything but standard.

I chose the pressed rabbit terrine, smoked pigeon, pickled apples and truffle marshmallow to start, followed by the fillet of aged beef with Tartiflette potato, creamed mushrooms and watercress puree. There was no room for pudding.

The next day we rose early to take in some York must-sees, including York Minster, the medieval Shambles and a pitstop at Betty's Tea Room. With the queue snaking around the corner, we soon found ourselves back at the Cedar Grand for a feast of finger sandwiches, mini cakes and fruit skewers in the elegant White Rose Room.

Even the homemade jam had been sourced from an old lady in Harrogate. For anyone looking for five-star luxury, this former railway HQ is just the ticket.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
Cedar Court Grand Hotel & Spa (01904 380038/ www.cedarcourtgrand.co.uk) offers doubles from £155 per night (two sharing), B&B. The Spa at The Grand offers treatments from £20 .
Grand Central (0844 811 0071/www.grandcentralrail.co.uk) offers return rail travel from London Euston to York from £75.
Welcome to Yorkshire: 01904 550099/www.yorkshire.com