WHERE TO STAY
The city's most vibrant neighbourhood is Colaba on the tip of south Mumbai's peninsula.
Bustling night and day with honking taxis and kerbside food vendors serving up spicy snacks, it is also home to many of the city's best hotels and restaurants.
Just a short taxi ride away from Colaba is Chowpatty Beach (see below).
Bollywood talent scouts often cruise the cafés along Colaba Causeway looking for wannabe movie stars to appear as extras.
Are you ready for your close-up?

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CHECKING IN
Not only is the prestigious The Taj Mahal Palace (00800 4588 1825/tajhotels.com) Mumbai's best five-star property, it is an Indian institution.
Bursting with old-school glamour and Anglo-Indian influences, the hotel has been pampering presidents, celebrities and maharajahs since 1903.
The vaulted alabaster ceilings, onyx columns, crystal chandeliers and grand staircase give it the wow factor, while the displays of fine art and period furniture add a regal charm.
The views of the Bay Of Bombay and the Gateway Of India, an archway of yellow basalt built by the British to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, are equally impressive.
Opt for a room in the newly refurbished colonial palace wing with its marble bathrooms and personal butler.

WHERE TO EAT
Rich, aromatic and above all else, spicy, Mumbai's culinary scene packs a punch.
Kebab Korner on the first floor of the InterContinental Hotel (0871 423 4749/intercontinental.com) on Marine Drive serves some of the best north Indian cuisine in town.
I dined on tender tandoori tiger prawns followed by a scoop of saffron ice cream while watching lovebirds stroll along the promenade below. Main courses cost from £10.
Upstairs is the rooftop Dome, a bar with spectacular views of the Arabian Sea and serving delicious cocktails. Another top spot is the Mediterranean-inspired Olive Bar and Kitchen (olivebarandkitchen.com). Rustic yet trendy with candle-lit stone walls and a gravelled courtyard the bar has been known to whip up some unusual concoctions. Smoked salmon martini anyone? Main courses from £6.

DON'T MISS
Gandhi's legacy lives on 63 years after his assassination. Visit the quiet, simple home where he lived for 17 years. Mani Bhavan on Laburnum Road is now a small museum showcasing belongings and letters written by the nation's forefather including one heartfelt note to Hitler urging restraint.
Entry is free.
Follow in Caroline Quentin's footsteps on an enlightening guided tour of the sprawling Dharavi slum, the largest in Asia and the backdrop for the hit film Slumdog Millionaire. Tours are available from Reality Tours and Travel (realitytoursandtravel.com) from £6.80pp.
Whatever you do don't miss sunset at Chowpatty Beach, the two-mile, palm-fringed arc of Marine Drive with its Art Deco buildings and historic Fort district.
As dusk descends, families and courting couples flock there to feel the sand between their toes.

BE PAMPERED
The contemporary five-star Oberoi Hotel (00800 1234 0101/ oberoihotels.com) has recently opened the only 24-hour spa in Mumbai so you know where to go should you get the urge for a coconut milk body scrub at 3am.
The therapists can soothe away stress when the frantic pace of the city takes its toll. Ayurvedic massages feature prominently.
The origins of this traditional Indian therapy date back 5,000 years and many believe it aids wellbeing in body and mind.

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RETAIL THERAPY
Exotic markets, chic boutiques and intriguing antique shops make Mumbai a fascinating place to pick up some souvenirs. Fashionistas should make a beeline for Bombay Electric behind The Taj Mahal Palace hotel.
The emporium stocks bright outfits and costume jewellery by Indian designers such as Manish Arora. A bejewelled antique sari will set you back £330.
Next door is Good Earth, a kitsch homeware store with shelves of bold and quirky ranges.
The Bollywood-meets-Andy Warhol cushions are guaranteed to make an impact. Bargain hunters will love Chor Bazaar and the array of family-run antique stores along Mutton Street.
Haggle for the handicrafts, carvings and one-off pieces and watch out for the goats, pickpockets and speedy scooters.
Caroline Quentin: A Passage Through India, a new three-part series, begins on Tuesday at 9pm on ITV1.

GETTING THERE:
BA Holidays (0844 493 0758/ba.com/mumbai) offers seven nights at the Taj Mahal Palace And Tower Hotel from £1,309pp (two sharing), room only, including return flights from Heathrow for departures from April 16 until September 30, 2011.

India Tourism: 020 7437 3677/incredibleindia.org