ake the rickety three-man Schindlergratbahn chairlift there and enjoy views over the tiny village of Stuben. Continue to the north-facing slopes of Stuben for even better snow cover and plenty of off-piste to lay fresh tracks.

Then try the sunny, smooth slopes of Rendl which never seem to get too icy or busy.
Rendl Beach, which overlooks the snow park, is a great spot to relax in a deckchair and people watch.

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WHERE TO STAY
Five minutes' stroll from the main Galzig lift. Villa Montfort is the perfect spot to rest your weary legs. Sleeping up to 24, this is a large modern chalet offering mouth-watering homecooked food and spacious but homely en-suite rooms.
Kaluma Travel (01730 260263/ www.kalumatravel.co.uk) offers seven nights from £1,200pp (two sharing), half-board.
For a small but comfortable B&B, try Landhaus Daniel (dialling from the UK: 0043 5446 2698/www.landhausdaniel.at) which offers doubles from £88 per night (two sharing), B&B.

WHERE TO APRÈS SKI
Coming down the home run to the Galzig lift, stop off at the chalet-style Underground. With a wonderfully eccentric owner, Joan, unusual oil paintings and tables crammed into every nook and cranny, this place is more like an Austrian home than a restaurant/bar. During après, you'll receive a free shot of schnapps with any drink.
Following the Tube theme, Piccadilly offers live modern music from Gunnar (now in his 16th season) every day except Saturday. Friendly, with a slightly older crowd, if you want to dance in your ski boots this is the place.

WHERE TO EAT
I'd never refuse an invite to Restaurant Hospiz Alm (www.hospizalm.at). The service in this timber-clad haven is faultless. Try the local saddle of venison or the Hospiz Alm duck, which is so good it's served in two courses. Or grab a glass of wine, selected from the 620-year-old cellar.
Hazienda (www.hazienda.at) is another good bet, an Italian offering a varied and modern menu. For a mountain snack, soak up the sun on the terrace at Taps (www.am-arlberg.info/taps) overlooking the piste.

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WHERE TO VISIT
Running from the top of Nasserein lift to the start of town, St Anton's 4km floodlit toboggan run is a great way for non-skiers to experience the joy of shooting down the mountain.
Pick up tickets from the Nasserein ticket office (£9 per adult, £4 per child). For something more relaxing, pull on a pair of snow boots and get a pedestrian foot pass to the top of the Valluga II cable car.
This is the highest peak in St Anton offering a 360-degree panorama of the Alps.

THE KNOWLEDGE:
easyJet (0905 821 0905/www.easyjet.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Innsbruck from £55. ÖBB (dialling from the UK: 0043 5 1717/www.oebb.at) offers hourly train transfers from Innsbruck to St Anton am Arlberg from £26 return.

Austrian Tourist Office: 0845 101 1818/www.austria.info.

Chalet Girl is released on Wednesday.