HITTING in a spacious, comfy leather chair, Scotch in hand and watching the majestic Canadian Rockies pass by, I felt a world away from the stresses of my daily rail commute. It's hardly surprising really, as I'd given up the grime of London's Underground for a two-day trip on what has to be one of the world's most spectacular railway tours: Rocky Mountaineer's Journey Through The Clouds.

The route, one of a choice of four the trains take through the heart of the Rockies, travels the 520 or so miles between Jasper and Vancouver, with an overnight stop in Kamloops providing a break in the journey.

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I'd boarded the train in the early hours of a crisp spring morning in Jasper, a picturesque mountain town in the province of Alberta, and was ushered into the split-level GoldLeaf Dome carriage.

GoldLeaf is the highest of three levels of service on the train. The sides and roof of the carriage are made of glass and there's an à la carte dining service meaning you can tuck into a delicious breakfast and lunch in the downstairs dining room and then admire the breathtaking scenery through picture windows on the top deck.

GoldLeaf passengers also don't have to worry about carrying their luggage to and from the hotel in Kamloops, it's all taken care of, which means you can just sit back, relax and enjoy the view. And what a view.

Deep green forests stretching as far as the eye could see, framed by the snowwhite peaks of the Rockies and clear blue sky. Occasionally, the trees gave way to crystal-clear, glacial shimmering lakes and rivers. Best of all was the opportunity to feel the wind in my hair by stepping out into the large covered vestibule at the back of the train from where I admired the beauty of 12,972ft Mount Robson, the highest in the Rockies, as we rolled along.

It was exhilarating and I felt immensely privileged to be experiencing such spectacular scenery which is not accessible by car or coach.
Another highlight was the wildlife.

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I watched countless bald eagles soaring majestically through the sky while bighorn sheep grazed, seemingly oblivious to the speeding hulk of steel and glass rushing past them. One of my travelling companions complained she hadn't spotted any black bears but then whoosh, we flew past some large black fuzzy shapes. By the time she realised, they were receding into the distance.

Before my epic train journey began, I'd stopped off at Banff, a pretty town in the national park that carries its name and is not too far from Jasper. In winter, it's one of Canada's main ski resorts and, as if to illustrate its proximity to the great outdoors, all the streets are named after animals, including Bear Street. While bears do occasionally head through the town itself, on my visit it was elks that were grazing on hotel lawns.

My tour group had stopped to take pictures of the Bow Falls on Bow River that runs though Banff, when a bull elk suddenly appeared. It was at that point Alan, our tour guide, told us it was the rutting season. We quickly departed, lest Mr Elk got the wrong idea.

Visitors to Banff can indulge their inner cowboy by going on a horse trail but I decided to opt for an exhausting, yet exhilarating, day-long hike up the nearby 9,675ft Mount Rundle. Topped with jagged limestone cliffs, it is one of most photographed peaks in the Rockies.

Following my descent, I soon found the perfect place to quench my thirst, The Banff Ave Brewing Company bar in the Clocktower Mall. Sitting on the balcony of the microbrewery, I downed several stouts that tasted very similar to Guinness but somehow better.

The friendly waitress attributed it to the clear, glacial mountain water the brewers use.

BACK ON board the Rocky Mountaineer, my epic rail journey was nearly at an end. Now in British Columbia, we traversed Fraser Canyon with its dramatic landscape and raging white river that is home to the province's largest salmon fishing run.

After the rich agricultural lands of Fraser Valley, the scenery began to change. The pristine wilderness gave way to rusting cars in overgrown backyards on the outskirts of Vancouver before we hit the sleek high-rises of the city itself. After checking in at the elegant Wedgewood Boutique Hotel & Spa, I made a beeline for bustling Granville Street, home to numerous bars and restaurants.

While trying to decide my next move in the Lennox Pub, I got chatting to some friendly locals who recommended I visit Stanley Park, a lush oasis in the middle of the city.
It's not as spectacular as the majestic mountains of the Rockies but it still sure beats my commute home.

GETTING THERE: Canadian Affair (020 7616 9933/canadianaffair.com) offers a seven-night Canada package including a two-day Rocky Mountaineer Train tour from £989pp (two sharing).

Price includes BA flights from Gatwick to Calgary and return from Vancouver, four nights (room only) accommodation in Vancouver, two nights (room only) in Calgary and one night (room only) in Kamloops plus meals on board the train.

Rocky Mountaineer: (dialling from the UK: 001 877 460 3200/rockymountaineer.com).

British Columbia Tourism: 020 7930 6857/britishcolumbia.travel

Travel Alberta: travelalberta.com