IT'S not often that I spend an entire afternoon wrapped in soft, warm towels, so relaxed I'm close to drifting off. But it's not often that I'm in one of the most luxurious spas at sea.

I sampled the appropriately named Royal Spa during a Canary Islands cruise aboard Cunard's Queen Elizabeth (0845 071 0300/www.cunard.co.uk). Combined with a fitness centre, the Royal Spa fills the front of the ship on one deck and has nine treatment rooms, a Chakra Rasul room (for the Eastern mud cleansing ritual) and a Zen-like retreat for stretching out with a herbal tea.

Click here now for amazing offers to Lisbon!

The focal point is the Royal Bath House with its tranquil hydrotherapy pool area, decked out in slate grey and muted blue with stylish loungers.
Slipping into pampering mode, I spent several hours flitting between the warm mineral pool and the Thermal Suite with eucalyptus-enriched steam room, drying off on one of the heated ceramic loungers.

Occasionally I glanced up from my book to see historic Cádiz through the floor-length windows. I'd spent the morning navigating the city's narrow streets with their overhanging windows and hidden courtyards.

Other passengers had gone off to Jerez, one of Spain's famous Moorish sherry towns, and Seville, the home of flamenco dancing. But I'd spent the previous day exploring the castle and churches of Lisbon and was still in recovery mode.

No one told me how hilly the Potugal capital is but this does make for great views. From the castle I could take in the River Tagus and the many spires that punctuate the pretty skyline.

By the time I picked up the shuttle coach I was utterly exhausted. Which was what led me to the spa. After my spell in the hydrotherapy pool it was time to have my hands and arms massaged with oil and my feet cosseted in a foot wrap. Then it was a frangapani oil scalp-and-shoulder rub, followed by the Royal Spa's signature treatment, the 90-minute Remède facial.

Want incredible deals to Dubrovnik? Click here now...

When I finally departed I was feeling as fluffy as a cloud. But, frankly, everybody travelling on Cunard's newest ship feels pretty special.

The Queen Elizabeth has an art deco theme running from the Grand Lobby into most of its public spaces. Afternoon tea in the Queen's Room, one of the grandest ballrooms at sea, accompanied by a string quartet, was lovely. Other favourite places included The Verandah, the speciality dining room boasting art deco mirrors where I ate pigeon breast with bitter chocolate.

Retiring to my cabin, with its soothing gold-and-cream decor, I drifted off reading the spa menu and dreamed of my next treatment. After all, you can have enough of culture.

A 16-night Iberian Celebration cruise on Cunard's Queen Elizabeth from £2,303pp (two sharing). Departs Southampton, Dec 20, 2011.

OTHER HEAVENLY SPAS AT SEA

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS
Book a Samsara Suite on Costa Cruises' Costa Favolosa (0845 351 0552/www.costacruises.co.uk) and you'll have your own personal spa bath as well as access to the two-deck Samsara Spa.
This has a Turkish bath, a thalassotherapy pool, a Finnish sauna and even a tepidarium.
Its Grand Inaugural Cruise is a three-night round trip from Venice, calling at Dubrovnik.
A three-night Grand Inaugural Cruise from Venice on Costa Favolosa from £452pp (two sharing), including flights from Gatwick. Departs July 4, 2011.

AZURA RETREAT
When the Azura was launched by P&O Cruises (0845 678 0014/www.pocruises.com) last summer it lifted the company's spa facilities to a new level.
The ship has an adults-only, private outdoor spa terrace, The Retreat, which has its own pool and sundeck with romantic cabaña for massages.
The Azura's Norway/Fjords cruise from Southampton has several sea days, giving you plenty of time to hit the spa.
A seven-night Norway/Fjords cruise on Azura from £749pp (two sharing). Departs Southampton, July 14, 2012.

MARINA MAKEOVER
Facilities on Oceania Cruises' luxury ships (0845 505 1920/ www.oceaniacruises.co.uk) had a revamp to match the top-ofthe-range spa on its latest ship Marina. Now you can indulge in a Canyon Ranch SpaClub on each of its four mid-size ships.
There are thalassotherapy pools and body massage jet basins, as well as a thermal suite with aromatic steam rooms and saunas.
A 10-night Legends & Wonders cruise (Rome/Venice) on Marina from £1,635pp (two sharing). Departs Rome, April 12, 2012. BA (0844 493 0787/ www.ba.com) offers return flights to Rome from £140.