IS THAT Mr Big in the corner?" I whisper to my husband, Tim, who looks at me quizzically. "You know, from Sex And The City." He glances over but we can't decide without resorting to staring, which would be rude in the intimate space of the Corinthia Hotel's Bassoon Bar.

Given the roster of celebrities (Colin Firth, Jemima Khan, Cuba Gooding Jr) who have been snapped entering the swish five-star hotel since its grand opening last month, our fellow drinker could well be Chris Noth.

We're distracted from further speculation, however, by the arrival of my Victorian Mojito (gin, lemon, sugar, mint, apple juice) and Tim's home-made thyme and lime soda with gin.

The Bassoon might be the smallest public space in London's newest grand hotel but it's already the busiest, with the city's most creative and (at ?5 a drink), expensive cocktail menu. Served amid Jazz-Age décor complete with 20ft-long piano bar, it's no surprise that the Bassoon is already making a big noise among Westminster MPs and office workers from Trafalgar Square, both a short stroll away.

For dinner, you can choose from The Massimo Restaurant and Oyster Bar, headed by Michelinstarred Italian chef Massimo Riccioli, and The Northall, dishing up seasonal British fare. Lunches and afternoon teas can also be taken in The Northall or in the snow-white Lobby Lounge with its atrium skylight and globe-shaped Baccarat chandelier.

The Northall's soaring neo-classical ceilings, double-height windows and elegant grand-caf?style win us over. While we're waiting for a table, we grab a seat in its spacious bar dominated by a square Victorian island counter, flanked by a dozen white-leather barstools and 20 two-person tables.

Cocktails here are classic and less pricey and there's an extensive list of wines by the glass.

Bigging up its "seasonal British" ethos, most dishes on the menu list their provenance. Tim's warm salad of smoked eel with house piccalilli is moreish, with the rich, smoky fish flavour balanced by the piquant, chunky relish. My softly cooked organic egg mayonnaise, watercress salad and celeriac salt, however, leaves much to be desired.

A plate with two soft-boiled eggs on it, albeit cooked to runny perfection and a whispy garnish of watercress isn't what I'd call egg mayonnaise.
I'd call that soft-boiled eggs.

My main course of butternut squash tart, Beenleigh Blue goat's cheese, beetroot and courgette-flower beignet makes up for the starter. The delicate blue cheese complements the hearty butternut squash with the flaky pastry and a handful of walnuts adding just the right bite.

Tim's deep-fried haddock in beer batter, with chips and mushy peas is delightfully fresh, light and crisp, evoking seaside holidays.

WE SAUNTER to our fifth-floor room with its small balcony overlooking the courtyard. Those with enough cash to splash on one of the 43 suites, opening later in the summer, can choose from a range of vistas, including the Thames, St James's Park, Big Ben and Trafalgar Square.

The 5,000sq ft Royal Suite promises to be the largest in London with its own walk-in wine cellar. Our entry-level Executive Room may measure a modest 480sq ft but that's the same size as our flat so we're not complaining.

Dark-wood furniture and accents give a warm, homely feeling to the contemporary bedroom décor, while the white marble bathroom gleams and encourages lingering, with its built-in bathtub TV, standalone shower, his and hers sinks and enclosed WC and bidet.

After a delicious breakfast in The Northall, I take a peek at the hotel's ESPA Life, set to open next month. I've been lucky enough to lounge around some of London's finest five-star spas but this one takes the cake.

The 27,000sq ft space is spread over four floors and guests will have free access.

The black, white and champagne décor evokes classic Chanel style but it's the numerous facilities that take the breath away: 17 futuristic treatment pods for sessions with naturopaths, acupuncturists, herbalists, osteopaths, physios and spa therapists, a state-of-the-art gym, a nail studio, a Daniel Galvin Hair Salon, three steam rooms and two Finnish saunas. The list goes on and on.

The spa's pièce de résistance, however, is a custom-designed, 14-person sunken amphitheatre sauna. I bet even Mr Big would gawp at that.

GETTING THERE:
Corinthia Hotel London (020 7930 8181/corinthia.com) offers doubles from ?50 per night (two sharing), room only. Visit London: 020 7234 5800/visitlondon.com