IT IS dawn and the first of the summer sunlight is beginning to creep into the room. Outside all is still, save for the gentle rustling of the Scots pine trees in the early morning breeze. An owl hoots nearby, before the early rising wood pigeons tweet the arrival of the new day.

Then, as if by clockwork, at the same time as yesterday morning, there's a more familiar cry. "Daddddeeeeeeeeeeee... Biiiiiiiike." It's the call of my 19-month-old daughter on the second full day of her holidays. Albeit, a tad early at 5.30am.

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Hence, little over two hours later I find myself hurtling down a hill, frantically ringing the bell to forewarn any oncomers, whilst a gleeful toddler cries "Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" from the chair on the back.

Welcome to Center Parcs at Whinfell, in the heart of Cumbria where, it turns out, the bike rules. They're everywhere. Indeed at peak times it feels more like downtown Saigon than the Penrith forest, what with the sheer number of people pedalling here, there, and everywhere. But, actually, that's the beauty of this place.

With cars banned from the 400-acre resort, you have to rely on two wheels to get about. Not only does it mean the area is safe for little ones to run about in, it's fun and the children love it.

We zoom past the picturesque lake and Village Centre, which form the heart of the resort. It's here you'll find the majority of the restaurants, bars, and shops, as well as the giant indoor Subtropical Swimming Paradise, with its array of pools and flumes.

Nearby there is separate Sports Plaza, where you'll find facilities for football, tennis, squash, badminton, and indoor golf, and an Outdoor Activity Centre, with more adrenaline-fuelled pursuits such as quadbiking, laser combat, and paintball. Oh, and there's also sailing and other water-based activities at the Boathouse, of which more later, and, of course, the forest itself with its myriad cycle routes and walking trails.

All in all, it's a vast area but whatever you choose to do, it's clear children rule - they're placed at the heart of everything. Indeed, in many ways, it's the little things that make the biggest difference, such as the fact children's snacks and baby food are sold behind the bars. There are also microwaves in the restaurants allowing parents to heat baby meals, and soft play areas to keep them entertained, high chairs and cots come as standard in all accommodation, and there are even mini shopping trollies in the resort supermarket. And don't forget the award-winning nursery and children's club, where even the smallest of guests can hang out, allowing parents some time to themselves.

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"Park! Park! Paaaaaark!," comes the increasingly excited cry from the eagle-eyed toddler-turned-navigator sat behind me as we near one of the outdoor adventure playgrounds. Securing the bike in one of the many bikeparks dotted around we head in to sample the delights of the giant slide and clamber across umpteen shoogly wooden bridges.

Even now, it's barely 8.15am but the resort is quickly coming to life with some residents savouring an al fresco breakfast on their outdoor patios. The accommodation at Center Parcs comes in all shapes and sizes, from the entry level one bedroom villa, to the luxurious two-storey four-bedroom original-style exclusive lodge, complete with spa facilities and outside hot tub.

We're in the new-style executive lodge, recently given a modern makeover with new décor, flatscreen TV, and free wifi. It has three ensuite bedrooms, a large open-plan living area and well-equipped kitchen with a breakfast bar, while out back there's a patio with a huge gas BBQ, table and chairs, and our own private sauna with outdoor shower. It's a veritable home from home.

It's worth noting that despite the vast number of properties in the resort, they are well spaced out and are integrated well into the surrounding woodland. Indeed, they feel extremely secluded and we barely see our neighbours. Our back door leads straight onto the forest, with tall pines towering about the lodge.

Back on the bike, we pass the Boathouse again, where yesterday an hour-long lesson on sailing a pico dinghy inadvertently ended with a dip in the lake for my wife. Perhaps we should have opted for the windsurfing, kayaking, or pedalo hire. Then again, perhaps we should just have stayed on the sandy beach.

Children might rule here but there is more than enough to keep grown-ups occupied on site. Watersports aside, there's the driving range, abseiling, horse riding, photography lessons, exercise classes, and ten-pin bowling, for starters.

Then there's the relaxing haven of Aqua Sana, one of the best spas anywhere in Britain, with its treatment rooms and 15 differently themed sauna and steam rooms. It also has a Japanese Zen Garden, waterbeds, multi-sensory showers, and a conservatory where healthy food and snacks are served. Bliss.

"Daddddeeeeeeeeeeeee," comes the cry from Jorja, shattering the moment of reflection on yesterday afternoon's ever-so-relaxing back massage. "Bike!" And with that, it is back in the saddle...