TENTATIVELY, we cross the wooden drawbridge to a raised portcullis, key at the ready. As the creaky door opens, a vast expanse of high stone walls, fairytale towers, dungeons and, rather bizarrely, our holiday cottage home appears.

The sun is about to set, casting long shadows across the grass and flowerbeds of the inner ward. With the same lust for adventure once displayed by knights in armour, my daughter's boyfriend, Andrew, 27, bounds off to one of the towers.

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Seconds later he is back, looking rather grim. "I've just seen an old lady with a spinning wheel, " he says. Becca and I look at each other nervously but he smiles. "No need to panic; it's a mannequin."

So our adventure in one of Wales' most beautiful medieval castles began. Constructed in the 11th century by a Norman lord, Manorbier has stunning sea views, a sheltered public beach, dramatic coastline and fascinating history.

The three of us spent hours clambering up spiral staircases and admiring turrets, imagining what life must have been like.

A lot of our exploration was done before the castle's visitors arrived at 10am. They left at 6pm enabling us to roam again or sit on the lawn sipping wine and contemplating its surprisingly peaceful past. Only once, during the English Civil War, was the castle readied for battle but it was surrendered without a shot being fired. Otherwise, the birthplace of scholar Gerald of Wales escaped the ravages of war to prosper for more than 1,000 years.

Inside the castle's fortifications the house spans three floors and sleeps 12. Among the antique furniture, portraits and shelves of books and games are all the mod cons you need: a range cooker, Sky TV, barbecue and en-suite rooms.

George Bernard Shaw is said to have worked on plays here, Virginia Woolf said it inspired her to become a writer, and Siegfried Sassoon wrote a typically thought-provoking poem about the place. Reading the comments in the guestbook dating back more than a decade it's clear the cottage and its surroundings are a hit with families, many of whom return.

Some talk of midnight banquets, others of going up the towers by candlelight and one brave soul admits to accepting a dare to sleep alone in the chapel. I'd never do that and slept soundly, undisturbed by ghostly ramblings.

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Manorbier village is a short walk away. It has grown up around the castle and is a charming example of the pretty hamlets that abound in Pembrokeshire. The Castle Inn, with its low ceilings, chatty staff and friendly locals, offers simple, appetising food at a great price while the family-run Castlemead Hotel is more upmarket, with tasteful decor and lovely valley views. Here we feasted on fresh mussels and locally sourced steak.

We drove six miles to the walled town of Tenby, again steeped in history. With its medieval centre, brightly coloured houses, lovely Blue Flag beaches and dramatic cliffs, it deserves its reputation as one of Wales' most popular resorts.

I was surprised at the moderate prices, too, a four-hour car park stay, for example, costing 80p. We had fun exploring the county but Andrew and Becca, 22, are keep-fit enthusiasts and wanted a challenge. The solution lay at Tree Tops Adventure Trail at Heatherton World of Activities, three miles from Tenby.
I kept my feet on the ground as they donned harnesses to embark on a series of daunting obstacles.

For two hours they tackled five courses, each tougher than the last with rope bridges, beams and zip wires. The Sky Tower was the toughest: a 30ft mast and wall that seemed more terrifying because it was over concrete. "Awesome" and "brilliant, " they exclaimed.

Heading back to Manorbier for a final barbecue and evening on the ramparts, the verdicts neatly summed up the holiday as a whole.

GETTING THERE

Forgotten Houses (01326 340153/ forgottenhouses.co.uk) offers seven nights at Manorbier Castle from £1,455 (sleeps 12), self-catering.
Heatherton World Of Activities (01646 652000/heatherton.co.uk) offers a Tree Tops Adventure Trail from £25pp (minimum age 10).
Visit Pembrokeshire: 0844 888 5115/ visitpembrokeshire.com