Follow in Ronaldo's footsteps for an exclusive getaway in Funchal, Madeira says DOMINIK LEMANSKI You know you’re on to a winner if soccer superstar Cristiano Ronaldo not only stayed at your hotel – he was also interested in buying part of it.
Casa Velha do Palheiro in Ronaldo’s hometown Funchal, the capital of Madeira, is a sprawling, luxury estate in the hills of the idyllic Portuguese island.
As well as the hotel, in the carefully tended Palheiro Gardens, there’s an 18-hole golf course and clubhouse, restaurant – and apartments and villas available for rent or sale.
Hotel owner Jonathon Blandy told me that Ronaldo had a look at one recently.
“We hope to see him back here again one day,” he said. “He would be most welcome."
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WHERE TO STAY
Casa Velha is the height of exclusive luxury – so no wonder it attracts stars like Ronaldo and, erm, Maggie Thatcher.
I spent my first morning was spent enjoying the delights of the five-star estate's spa facilities including hot tub, steam and sauna rooms and great treatments – all available just a short walk from my tastefully decorated hotel room.
Throw in the outdoor pool, golf course, top restaurants, bars and grounds you can explore for hours, and you’re in for the perfect holiday.
CULTURE FIX
Head to historic Old Blandy Wine Lodge for a spot of wine tasting in the heart of Funchal.
A fascinating spot and a must-see for avid wine tasters, the Lodge was built in the 17th Century as an annex to a monastery but was acquired by Brit Charles Blandy – an ancestor of the present day Blandy family – and converted into a winery.
Today the famous fortified wine sells around the world.
After a short tour of the famous lodge and a quick tasting session I was in need of a stiff coffee. No wonder Winston Churchill was a fan.
CHILL TIMEBrits have been visiting Madeira for decades but in recent years young couples and families have descended on the island paradise alongside older visitors and golf enthusiasts.
Pursuits on offer include jet skiing, paragliding, rock climbing, jeep safaris and deep-sea fishing – not to mention a healthy dose of nightlife.
Not being the extreme sports type I opted for a laid-back boat trip on Casa Velha’s own private boat – the Balancal motor yacht – available for hire from reception (
madeira-marlin.com).
A fantastic way to see the island’s impressive coastline including an awe-inspiring length of sheer black cliff face – albeit sailing against a stiff Atlantic Ocean wind.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant serving up a selection of fish-based treats including fresh sardines and octopus – was accessible only via a cable car from the top of the cliff above or via a short swim from a boat anchored off the shore.
Two hours later after a swim, several glasses of local “Coral” lager and a spot of Madeira wine I make it back to the boat and thankfully managed to keep my fish supper down.
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EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
Dinner in the hotel’s dining room is a real treat, with delicious choices including fresh Scottish salmon and French wild mushrooms. All washed down with a glass Madeira – the world-famous Portuguese fortified wine.
Another must is lunch at the Palheiro Golf Clubhouse, where recent visitors include English pro-golfer Ross Fisher. Staff assured me beginners were also welcome with a range of courses available.
Situated below the 18th green the open-plan restaurant offers breathtaking views across the island of Madeira as well as a mean variety in local specialties including the scrumptious Black Scabbard fish dish.
Another evening I headed out for dinner at locals’ hangout Zarcos. It’s perfect spot if you like hunks of succulent meat hanging off skewers, piri-piri style sauce, sweet potatoes and a myriad of mouth-watering desserts.
Another great find it stylish Riso terrace restaurant, situated in a beautiful spot on the edge of Funchal’s atmospheric Old Town. I scoffed down a tasty chicken and prawn curry as the Atlantic Ocean crashed against the coast below. Heaven!
Several bars later and several glasses of Poncha later (Madeira’s traditional white-rum lemon juice and Bee’s honey drink) I thought I was superman.
Inevitably the evening was extended to a beachside nightclub, which was still packed with locals dancing to pulsating Mediterranean rhythms when I left at 6.30am.
One thing’s for sure – there’s nothing dull about Madeira.
GET ME THERE!
TAP Portugal (flytap.com; 0845 601 0932) flies from Gatwick to Funchal once a day, from £55 one-way including all taxes.
Around 15 kilometres from the airport, Casa Velha do Palheiro (casa-velha.com; 00351 291 790 350) has 37 luxury rooms, with prices starting from 199 Euros (£173) for a standard double.