HANGING on for dear life, our cabbie jostled for position with Cadillacs, Pontiacs, Chevrolets and Buicks.

Motorbikes and rickshaws weaved in between the gaps.

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We were in the Cuban capital of Havana, a mad, mind-boggling mix of 1950s cars, crumbling murals of that bloke off the T-shirts - Che Guevara - and cigars.

It's a city stuck in a rather harming and spirited time warp and it's a shock to the system for any day-tripping tourist staying in one of Cuba's chilled-out beach resorts.
Cuba was forced to open its doors to western holidaymakers when its economy dried up overnight with the fall of communism in Europe in the early 1990s.

But despite welcoming Europeans, Americans - and indeed US brands - are entirely absent, thanks to a trade embargo dating back to 1961 when Fidel Castro embraced communism. That is why there are no McDonald's, no tarbucks, no Coca-Cola and no Nike trainers.
Instead, there are hundreds of posters, paintings and murals of Cuba's revolutionary heroes.

Although the tourism trade has brought coaches and people carriers to the streets, the vast majority of cars on the roads are '50s American models which are extinct in their homeland.

Walking around in Havana is the closest you'll come to seeing how things were in the past.
Old Havana - "Havana Vieja" - is the busiest area for tourism, with most of the city's bars and hotels.
Drinking rum, smoking cigars and live music are all much-loved Cuban pastimes which are enjoyed to the max in Old Havana.
With limited time we visited as many bars as we could.

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In Café Paris waiters weaved round tables and chairs serving extremely strong mojitos.
But if you survive the nightlife there is plenty to see during the day.

There are lots of museums. The biggest and most interesting is the Museo de la Revolucion, housed in the impressive former Presidential Palace.
The story of the revolution is a rather one-sided tale but it's mpossible not to be impressed by the way the country's leaders came to power and completely transformed the country.

Another popular spot with tourists is the Partagas Cigar Factory in Old Havana.
Here you can find out exactly how the famous cigars are rolled and how to tell the difference between a genuine Havana and a fake.
As far as getting around the city is concerned, there is no substitute for flagging down a pink Cadillac.

But if you prefer walking, tours are available or follow an architectural trail from the Lonely Planet guide.
One of the best places we visited was Paladar La Guarida, a private restaurant in central Havana.

Private restaurants in people's homes are a product of communist Cuba, which bans people advertising the fact they sell food at the front of their properties.
When we eventually found the estaurant we were told to walk through an empty building, up two flights of crumbling staircase and push a doorbell.
All of a sudden we were in omeone's home which had been converted into a restaurant.

We were seated at a table on a alcony overlooking the rooftops and watched the sun go down as we sipped daiquiris.
The food was delicious and interesting - rabbit lasagne, salmon medallions and orange snapper were all fresh and beautifully seasoned.
There are plenty of places to stay in Havana and many of the hotels are near to the action of the old town.

Our base was at Parque Central, which was great for comfort, friendliness and food. Plus, it has a brilliant view of the city from its rooftop swimming pool bar.
As the Castro regime gets ever closer to coming to an end, there is talk of the trade embargo with America being lifted.
So, if you want a taste of the real Havana before Big Macs, grande lattes and Nike Frees are in the streets, don't leave it too long.

FactFile
A ROOM at the Hotel NH Parque Central costs from £67 per person per night. To book visit en.cubafiesta.net/hotel or call 0203 239 2420.
Thomson offers seven-night holidays to Havana staying at the five-star Parque Central on a bed-and-breakfast basis from £970 per person.
Price is based on two adults sharing, departing Manchester on October 5 and includes transfers.
To book visit thomson.co.uk or call 0871 231 5595.
The Havana City Tour costs from £26 per adult and £19 per child. To book visit thomson.co.uk/excursions