VISITING Rome during the heat of summer is not for the faint-hearted, especially if your travelling companion uses a wheelchair. Far from a challenging mission, however, my mother Sue and I found our trip a delight.

The five-star Rome Cavalieri was home for our four-night stay. Set in 15 acres of lush parkland perched on top of verdant Monte Mario, the highest hill in Rome, the 370-room hotel complex provided the perfect escape from the frenetic city three miles away. The two outdoor swimming pools were a godsend after a hot afternoon's sightseeing. There's also a superb gym, spa and indoor pool with Turkish baths.

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The Cavalieri's opulent interior was just as impressive with marbled floors, mirrors, chandeliers and fine art. It is home to the world's largest private collection of 18th-century Venetian paintings, amassed over many years by the hotel's owner, Italian industrialist Angelo Guido Terruzzi. Original Tiepolos hang in the main lobby, rivalling displays in some of Rome's museums. Except here one can sip a chilled glass of Prosecco while marvelling at them.

Talk about a room with a view. From our balcony we could take in a wonderful panorama of the city below.

We always found something new to spot, from the Termini to Vatican City, where the majestic dome of St Peter's Basilica soars into the sky.

Waking up on Sunday morning with the sun streaming in and the bells ringing from St Peter's is an unforgettable memory.

The hotel staff were extremely helpful, none more so than Marcus, the chief concierge, who set about organising a sightseeing schedule which included plenty of down time.

He booked tickets for the Vatican Museum and also our superb guide Benedetto, who whisked us through the cool marble corridors past the tourist hordes and selected some highlights from the mind-boggling five miles of art galleries. His passion for Leonardo da Vinci's St Jerome and Raphael's Transfiguration elucidated these exquisite paintings.

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In the Sistine Chapel, beyond Michelangelo's spectacular Renaissance ceiling, Benedetto showed us the little room with the robes and shoes of past Popes.

He also took us along the 2,625ft Passetto di Borgo that runs from the Vatican to Castel Sant'Angelo, which the Pope would use as an escape route in ancient times.

The next day Marcus organised a driver and guide for a car tour of city centre sites. A sleek Mercedes carrying our guide Walli pulled up outside the hotel. Wheeling mum over the cobbles with gusto, Walli's knowledge and tales brought the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and the Pantheon to life.

Walli also proved her worth the next morning at the Colosseum. We bypassed a snaking queue and with the help of her picture book marvelled at how the city would have looked under the emperors with their vast palaces, temples and egos.

Despite the Colosseum being home to acts of brutality it is extraordinary to think that this near 2,000-year-old building is a blueprint for modern stadiums.

After all this sightseeing we returned to the hotel feeling quite ravenous. We dined at the Cavalieri's L'Uliveto, an elegant poolside restaurant. We enjoyed two aperitifs and a couple of glasses of wine as we shared Parma ham with melon and figs, and spaghetti with clams and lamb chops. The tiramisu was mouth-watering.

The £153 bill may have been a little on the pricey side, but hey, when in Rome...

The mild shock of the cost was overshadowed by the realisation that Hollywood star Pen©lope Cruz was dining at the next table. So, L'Uliveto may be relaxed but it still rates high in the glamour stakes.

The hotel's other restaurant, the three-Michelin-starred La Pergola, has a three-week waiting list but we were lucky the following evening to get a table after a last-minute cancellation. From its ninth-floor setting we enjoyed knockout panoramas of Rome twinkling by night and marvelled at the years of history below us.

La Pergola's tasting menu has to be one of my finest dining experiences. Duck foie gras, grilled tuna, black cod and shoulder of Iberian suckling pig were washed down with glasses of Miani Sauvignon Saurint 2009 and Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino 2005. Thankfully the sommelier guided us through a wine cellar boasting more than 50,000 bottles.

The restaurant's pasta fagottelli deserves a special mention; little parcels of buttery heaven that melt in your mouth. As for the petit fours, mum and I squealed as the little silver cabinet arrived, each chocolate in a separate drawer. I don't think I've ever seen such choice and sublime attention to detail.

As if that wasn't enough we got to meet the restaurant's stellar executive chef Heinz Beck who made a trip round the tables as fireworks from a wedding celebration exploded over the city. Belissima!

THE KNOWLEDGE

Citalia (0844 415 1956/www.citalia.com) offers three nights at the five-star Rome Cavalieri from £599pp (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Gatwick. For January departures. Sightseeing tours can be arranged by the hotel. A walking tour, including the Vatican Museum, from £180 for three hours (up to five people). A car tour with guide of city-centre sights from £132 for three hours (four people).

Italian State Tourist Board: 0207 408 1254/www.italiantouristboard.co.uk