The cobbled streets of Bellagio on Lake Como lure Hollywood A-listers. JONATHAN SMITH discovers why

DON’T GET me wrong, I’ve enjoyed almost every moment of our countless family holidays, from white-knuckle theme park rides to games on the beach.  

However, when the “little darlings” fly the nest it does allow you to take stock, be a bit selfish and do what you want rather than what the majority prefer. For my wife Lynn and myself, paradise was a week in the Italian Lakes.

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Our destination was Bellagio, a quaint cobbled town with winding alleys and steep steps on the promontory dividing the southern part of Lake Como. With its lush, sub-alpine vegetation, abundant cypresses and spectacular mountain backdrop it is hardly surprising that such stars as George Clooney, Brad Pitt and Madonna all love this area.

Unlike many picturesque Italian resorts, Bellagio is largely traffic free because tourists and visitors must park on the outskirts of the town. So we opted to forego hiring a car and took public transport from Milan Bergamo airport, about 45 miles away. Another factor was the price of a taxi, a whopping €160 each way.

I have to admit I hadn’t quite bargained for the fragmented journey which comprised a bus, two trains, a taxi ride to a ferry stop, a boat across the lake and finally a steep walk up steps to our home for the week, an apartment in Residence La Limonera. On the plus side, it was an adventure and presented us with unbelievable views.

Despite being a self-confessed petrolhead I didn’t miss having a car one jot. Our means of transport for the week was either boat or on foot. Most days we strolled down to the ferry terminal opposite a pretty ice cream parlour and restaurant and bought 20 euro ferry tickets that allowed us to drop in at other lakeside towns.

A 15-minute chug over the water is Menaggio, with its large Belle perfectly preserved medieval village, with two large villas whose gardens are open to the public and have amazing views over the water.

Bellagio, however, won the prize for best setting. At Residence La Limonera, right in the centre of the town, we could sit among the lemon trees and olive bushes, sip a glass of wine and watch the world bustle by at the end of the garden, while we pondered which restaurant to visit that evening.

Our apartment was simple but pristine with cream tiled floors and warm coral curtains, plus a kitchen and living room combined, with comfy chairs and a sofa bed.

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Thanks to it being on the first floor there was also a balcony overlooking the lush garden, 11th-century architecture and hillside beyond. From our bedroom we could see the snow-capped peaks of the Alps, an amazing horizon to wake up to. Despite being in the heart of town, there was hardly a sound at night.

One morning we set out to explore. Turning right out of the tall wrought-iron gates it was a short walk to the pretty harbour hamlet of Pescallo, which shade offered by the tall stone houses we ventured on to Loppia on the western side of the promontory.

Loppia is dominated by the impressive Villa Melzi built during the Napoleonic wars for the Duke of Lodi and now a museum and home to Count Scotti. It is open to the public along with extensive gardens that fringe the lake.

From here we hitched a ride back to Bellagio on the Trombetta Express, a brightly-painted tourist train.

IT IS hard to imagine anyone returning from Italy without putting on a few pounds. Bellagio is festooned with good eating establishments offering everything from a simple pizza to a gourmet feast. Perhaps our favourite, just two cobbled streets from our apartment, was Ristorante Bilacus. In a tranquil terraced garden we sampled the best asparagus and garlic risotto we’d ever tasted, followed by delicate lamb chops cooked in thyme and thinly coated in breadcrumbs.

Just as convenient was Antico Pozzo, a pizzeria with a wide menu that included a superb speciality octopus salad. For a lake view head to the atmospheric Hotel Suisse with its crisp white tablecloths and attentive service.

For breakfasts or lunch we often made the most of a jewel on our doorstep, Carni Caligari, a delicatessen with home-prepared salami, delicious local olives and speciality breads, cheeses and wines.

As we departed at the end of the week on the little white ferry we’d probably had as much exercise and more adventures than on many of our active family holidays. If this is the future, then I like it.

GETTING THERE:

Italian Country Cottages (0845 268 8800/italian-country-cottages.co.uk) offers seven nights at Residence La Limonera from £875 (four sharing), self-catering. Ryanair (0871 246 0000/ ryanair.com) offers return flights from London Stansted to Milan Bergamo from £42 Italian State Tourist Board: 020 7408 1254/ italiantouristboard.co.uk