Want to discover the real country? Stay on a traditional fattoria where, as ANNABELLE THORPE discovers, you'll find a warm welcome, fabulous food and a glass of vino
AUTUMN is one of the most beautiful times to visit Italy, when the olive trees drop their fruit, the vines are harvested and the country markets are rich in produce. Staying on a fattoria, a converted farmhouse, is a great way to gain an insight into rural Italian life. Many have been in the same family for generations and offer a very different experience to Italy's glitzy hotels.
Fattorias often continue as working estates alongside their B&Bs or self-catering units and one of the great pleasures of a stay is tasting the wines and olive oil produced just outside your door.
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BEST FOR FAMILIES
Fattoria Casa Sola, Barberino Val D'Elsa, Tuscany Ideal for families, Fattoria Casa Sola (dialling from the UK: 0039 055 807 5028/fattoriacasasola.com) comprises two elegant former farmhouses, Montarsiccio and Ticciaia, that offer 11 apartments surrounded by olive groves and rolling Tuscan hills.
Comfortably furnished, with rustic furniture and exposed beams, there is plenty of space inside and out, with part of the garden set aside as a play area for children. All the family-friendly paraphernalia (baby cot, bathtub and high chairs) are free of charge. Olive oil and wine tastings are on offer and there are hiking trails starting from the grounds.
Doubles from £60 per night (two sharing), B&B. easyJet (0905 821 0905/easyjet.com) offers return flights from various UK airports to Pisa from £88.
BEST FOR FOOD
Fattoria Mose, Agrigento, Sicily From the breakfast table laden with fresh ricotta, home-made bread, fresh figs and eggs, to the estate's olive oil which graces the shelves of Fortnum & Mason, Fattoria Mose (092 260 6115/ fattoriamose.com) is gastro heaven.
Surrounded by fruit orchards, the estate of the Agnello family offers a warm Sicilian welcome, whether in the cosy self-catering apartments or in the main house, which offers B&B. The fattoria is ideal for history lovers too, with the Valley of the Temples (home to six Greek temples) right next door.
Doubles from £87 per night (two sharing), B&B. Ryanair (0871 246 0000/ryanair.com) offers return flights from Stansted to Palermo from £132.
BEST FOR PEACE AND QUIET
Le Favate, Salerno, Campania In the heart of the tranquil Cilento National Park, Le Favate (097 497 7310/favate.it) features a wonderful stone tower, chapel and manor house that were built in the 17th century. Rooms have been carefully restored with terracotta floors and exposed wooden beams and are simply furnished, each with a fireplace or a wood-burning stove.
The surrounding countryside is criss-crossed with walking trails and is ideal for exploring on horseback (arranged by the helpful staff). There is history on hand too, with the archaeological sites of Magna Graecia, Paestum and Velia all nearby.
Doubles from £70 per night (two sharing), B&B. British Airways (0844 493 0787/ britishairways.com) offers return flights from Gatwick to Naples from £78.
BEST FOR WINE LOVERS
Fattoria Tregole, Castellina in Chianti, Tuscany Located in the heart of chianti country, Fattoria Tregole (333 432 9968/fattoria-tregole.com) is a classic Italian country estate, with self-catering houses dotted among the vines and an elegant farmhouse that offers B&B. The working vineyard produces rich red Chianti Classico and residents can tour the estate and cellars and indulge in a tasting. This fattoria also has a restaurant specialising in traditional Tuscan dishes. Special wine-tasting menus can be arranged.
The rooms all keep to the rustic feel too, with patchworked bedspreads and flagstone floors. The odd 21st century touch, such as indulgent whirlpool baths, is never far away though.
Doubles from £113 per night (two sharing), B&B. CityJet (0871 663 3777/cityjet.com) offers return flights from London City Airport to Florence from £79.
BEST FOR ROMANCE
Fattoria Di Corsignano, Siena, Italy Book yourself one of the beautifully restored apartments at Fattoria Di Corsignano (057 732 2545/ tenutacorsignano.it) and you will be in for a bucolic treat. Whitewashed walls and exposed beams complement the rustic wooden furniture and traditional Italian high-backed beds, while pretty terraces overlook the lush grounds of the estate.
The beautiful town of Siena is just five miles away, perfect for day trips or for romantic suppers at traditional trattorias. Dinner can also be arranged at Corsignano, with personalised menus offering the best local produce. Anyone inspired by all this fine eating will find cookery courses and wine tastings also on offer.
Doubles from £74 per night (two sharing), self-catering. Jet2 (0871 226 1737/jet2.com) offers return flights to Pisa from various UK airports from £98.