JIMI Hendrix was on to a good thing. When fast living in the Sixties got too much for the guitar legend, he holidayed in paradise.

Not the sun-kissed shores of some deserted island hideaway, but a secluded gorge deep within the Moroccan Atlas Mountains.

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The arid and sheer peaks of the aptly named Paradise Valley are covered with cacti, pine trees and spruce bushes.

Below, beside the giant boulders and river, is a narrow ravine where thousands of exotic palm trees stand crammed together.

Hendrix wasn't the first to fall for this beauty spot, 35 miles north-east of Agadir, Morocco's most developed beach resort. It was a favourite gathering place for hippy foreigners in the heady days of the Sixties. Paradise Valley got its name from a German couple who arrived ill and miraculously left cured six months later after bathing in the region's waters.

I, like so many British tourists now, flew to Agadir seeking a very different remedy - sunshine.

It has become Morocco's most popular coastal retreat and twice-weekly bmi flights starting from Heathrow today will boost visitor numbers.

Before tackling the city I decided to leave civilisation and venture into the rugged mountains that soar to 13,500ft.

Hiring a driver for the morning, we took off along the spectacular coastal road heading north towards Aourir, a small town famed for its tasty tagines and where goats often stand idly on the roofs of cars.

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Negotiating the vertiginous roads with care, we drove through Aqesri, a small Berber community home to only 100 families. Donkeys crowded the main square while their owners stocked up on fresh fruit and meat.

The rising road offered superb views of the Atlantic, before we cruised down to the narrow, tree-lined river. A small clearing by the side of the road marked the start of the five-mile trail leading down to the Ankrim River.

The terrain was steep and rocky but the well-worn route, through lavender bushes and carob trees, was easy to follow even without a professional guide.

Our trail was deserted, apart from the odd barking dog and occasional tourist. We came across a makeshift cafe, a shack with a roof of thatched palm leaves, and a lonely manager sitting beside a blackened iron kettle warming up over a traditional Berber stove: a clay mound fired by burning logs.

Sadly, we didn't have time for a cup of mint tea and pressed on towards the river, where I dipped my feet into the chilled water and sat to savour the solitude before heading back to explore Agadir.

The wind howled atop the 775ft summit, home to the Kasbah that overlooks the city, marina and beach. Hawkers peddled camel rides, the original mode of transport.

Built in 1540, the ruins are the last remaining piece of Agadir's ancient beginnings but sadly only the fortress's stone outer walls remain. All traces of the once inhabited interior have been lost to the centuries. Back at sea level, the lively promenade is lined with fancy restaurants, trendy bars and glossy hotels including the swish Royal Atlas Hotel & Spa where I was based.

After a drink by one of the three pools, it was time for dinner at the hippest restaurant in town, the newly opened 33 Yacht Address beside the marina, where I dined on locally caught lobster.

Across town in the suburbs is the recently constructed Medina Polizzi, built to give visitors a taste of traditional Berber culture.

Arabian lanterns hang over the maze of cobbled streets and hidden courtyards, lined with tropical plants and small family-run shops selling jewellery and paintings.

For some real interaction, head to the Souq al-Had, Agadir's bustling outdoor marketplace to watch animated locals haggling for a host of colourful spices.

Of course, the big attraction of Agadir will always be its blessed climate and beautiful beach but follow in the adventurous footsteps of Mr Hendrix and you won't be disappointed by what else you can find.

THE KNOWLEDGE
bmi (0844 848 4888/www.flybmi.com) offers return flights from Heathrow to Agadir from £129pp. Royal Atlas Hotel & Spa (dialling from UK: 00 212 528 294 040/www.hotelsatlas.com) offers doubles from £163 (two sharing), B&B. Maroc Horizon d'Aventures (528 213 426/www.trekking-au-maroc.com) offers day tours of the Atlas Mountains from £78pp. Moroccan Tourist Office: 0207 437 0073/www.visitmorocco.com